I just had a moment that I wanted to get down on "paper" so I would never forget. I am 28 years old, sitting in a nonprofit in Bangkok, working on a proposal to the UN for funds to provide HIV/AIDS training to out-of-school youth in the Tsunami affected provinces of Thailand. It's an indescribable feeling of elation when you realize that you are actually living in a moment you've only dreamt possible. I hope to have many, many more such moments.
I am feeling quite pleased with myself. :)
Thursday, March 31, 2005
Markets and Thai Massage
On Wednesday, we had students from Wat Po School of Thai Massage (http://www.thai-massage.com/) come to talk about Thai Massage. We were quite excited about the prospect of free pampering.
Before the massage, another volunteer and I headed out to MACRO, what I'd heard was similar to Wal-Mart back home. We boarded the 3.5 bhat bus (Bangkok's cheapest mode of transportation) and made the 10 minute journey. When we got there, we found that it was more like Sam's Club than Wal-Mart and made our way back to the neighborhood market, where we found everything we had gone to the store for. Lesson learned.
The Thai Massage students were suppossed to arrive at 5:00, but due to exceptionally horrendous Bangkok traffic, arrived two and a half hours late. At this point, we were all ready to forgo the whole thing, but did not want to have had them sit in traffic all that time for nothing.
Thai massage, from what I can gather, is based on specific points on your body that relate to other, some related some seemingly unrealed, parts. Some make sense, neck points for neck and head, back points for back, but others are less connected, "when I push here (putting pressure on a spot on my back), you should feel it in your eyes. Do you feel it?"
It turns out that Thai Massage, or at the very least, this particular form of Thai Massage performed by these particular students on the virginal massage recipient, is not all that pleasant. Most of us spent the session trying to hold back grimaces of pain as fingers were gouged into backs and sides. I made the smart move of saying that I had lower back pain, which lead to my lying on my stomach on the recieving end of some very painful jabs into my legs (which, in some way, had to do with the pain in my back). I hate to be a sceptic, so I'm not giving up on Thai Massage yet. I'm sure there is something to it. There is a place called Health Land that is suppossed to have amazing 2 hour massages for 300 bhat (about 8 dollars) that I just can't pass up at the price. I just hope I don't regret it!
Before the massage, another volunteer and I headed out to MACRO, what I'd heard was similar to Wal-Mart back home. We boarded the 3.5 bhat bus (Bangkok's cheapest mode of transportation) and made the 10 minute journey. When we got there, we found that it was more like Sam's Club than Wal-Mart and made our way back to the neighborhood market, where we found everything we had gone to the store for. Lesson learned.
The Thai Massage students were suppossed to arrive at 5:00, but due to exceptionally horrendous Bangkok traffic, arrived two and a half hours late. At this point, we were all ready to forgo the whole thing, but did not want to have had them sit in traffic all that time for nothing.
Thai massage, from what I can gather, is based on specific points on your body that relate to other, some related some seemingly unrealed, parts. Some make sense, neck points for neck and head, back points for back, but others are less connected, "when I push here (putting pressure on a spot on my back), you should feel it in your eyes. Do you feel it?"
It turns out that Thai Massage, or at the very least, this particular form of Thai Massage performed by these particular students on the virginal massage recipient, is not all that pleasant. Most of us spent the session trying to hold back grimaces of pain as fingers were gouged into backs and sides. I made the smart move of saying that I had lower back pain, which lead to my lying on my stomach on the recieving end of some very painful jabs into my legs (which, in some way, had to do with the pain in my back). I hate to be a sceptic, so I'm not giving up on Thai Massage yet. I'm sure there is something to it. There is a place called Health Land that is suppossed to have amazing 2 hour massages for 300 bhat (about 8 dollars) that I just can't pass up at the price. I just hope I don't regret it!
Tuesday, March 29, 2005
Crossing the Cultural Divide
Today was a great day. If I weren’t so exhausted from the effort, I’d be positively glowing.
Yesterday was my first day back at the office (after just one day last week) and I was a little anxious. I am suppossed to be in the office all this week helping the administrative staff and learning more about the organization and I thought it might be a good chance for me to get to know the staff better and to help them to be more comfortable with my presense (and to hopefully be helpful along the way!).
I entered the vestibule and traded my shoes for house slippers (you don't wear shoes inside anywhere in Thailand except for public buildings and shops) and said my "Sa-wa-dee, kas." Pong, offered me a seat and I sat. After a few minutes, I asked if I could help her with anything, to which she replied "mai bpen rai, ka," literray "nevermind or it doesn't matter," or in otherwords "no, thank you." So I thought I would ask Fawn. Same reply. Hmm. So I sat. And I sat. And I began to think over everything I'd ever read or heard about international volunteering. You are suppossed to be proactive, innovative, patient, open-minded and friendly. I had the friendly down pat.
Finally, Usana, came over and gave me a copy of the brochure that they want me to update. Relieved, I happily took out my pen and began editing, enjoying having something to do and being back in my element. After a few crossed out lines, some arrows and write ins, I realized that I was writing on a color brochure. Maybe this was the original... And it turned out that I was right. Pong came over and said, "I make copies from that. That is all I have." My heart sank, but was soon lifted by Vikram, who said, "mai bpen rai. You've done it. No use worrying" and I continued on with my edits. That afternoon, Usana gave me a list of topics to research and set me up on the Internet. I spent the rest of the afternoon feeling quite productive.
Today, most of the program staff is out of the office for the next few days doing training and so the office staff temporarily consists of the director, Sua, myself, Pong, Ni, and Usana. Sua is program staff, Usana is the head of administration, Pong is the office administrator and Ni is the general staff caretaker (cook, housekeeper, etc.) This morning I continued on my assignment from yesterday (research on Child Abuse Statistics both general and in Thailand). Since it was just Sua and I in the office, he really opened up and in between boughts of working, he would ask me questions about myself along with telling me about his wife and son and where he was from. He then started plying me with questions about English word meanings and pronunciations.
“How do you say “three?” Now how do you say “tree”? (Thai’s have a hard time pronouncing “th.”) "How do you say “sick”? Now how do you say “sixth”? “What is the difference between “pretty” and “beautiful”? “What about for a man? There is handsome and what else?” (For this we looked up “handsome” on thesauraus.com. I had no idea some of those words even existed! ) “Why do western women wear trousers and Thai women wear skirts? Do you have any skirts?”
All along, he taught me sayings and words in Thai. I can now say, “I really like the food here” and “I need to drink a lot of water. The weather is hot!” “Di-chan chawp ah-han nii mai, ka” and “Di-chan tong-khan deum naam ma. Ah-kaht ron!” respectively. He is also teaching me that some of the things in my lonely planet guide phrase book are considered rude. For example, “I don’t understand” according to lonely planet is “mai khao jai,” but he said if he “explain, explain, explain” something to me and I said afterward “mai, khao jai,” he would feel bad. So I should say, “Koh Todd, ka. Poot mai see, ka,” or “I’m sorry, please repeat that again.”
I suggested that maybe I could teach English to him and any of the other staff who were interested for 30 minutes a day or so (an idea given to my by our CCS director) and he was very agreeable. (I asked the director at lunch and he thought it would be great as well. After the English training last week and our back-and-forth this morning, I really think I am going to enjoy the lessons).
Lunch was just me, Sua, Pong and Ni and Sua proudly asked me “what are you doing?” pointing at my water bottle. “Di-chan duem naam (I drink water),” I replied and he lit up. We spent the rest of the meal going back and forth in very rudimentary English and Thai.When the director joined us, he explained to me that the research I was doing was for a concept paper that was to be part of a proposal for new project. He said that it would be about 1 – 2 pages. Then he said, “tomorrow, we will talk more about the paper and maybe you can write some of it… maybe 1 – 2 pages.” It turns out I might be helpful here after all.
Along with my success in the friendly department, I've also had to wrestle today with patience and innovation. I’ve found that internet research here is not as easy as it would be at home. For one there are the disconnections every 15 minutes. Also, the version of WORD here is in Thai, so if I want to insert a table or a page break or change the spacing, I have to work by trial and error, guessing at where the commands are on the menus in English. Most of the time I can figure them out but it was a huge accomplishment when I figured out how to change a table to text. I was quite proud. I encountered another hurdle when I tried to save the document I had created to a disk to be printed downstairs. For some reason WORD kept crashing every time I tried to save my document to a disk. I thought I would fool the computer and simply drag the files from my document folder to the A drive in Windows explorer, but it was on to me and explorer crashed when I tried to move the files. So finally, I came up with the bright idea of emailing the files to the HAT email and having Pong open them downstairs to print. After about 40 minutes of trying to upload the files between crashes – SUCCESS! Now I just hope the director is happy with what I put together!
Yesterday was my first day back at the office (after just one day last week) and I was a little anxious. I am suppossed to be in the office all this week helping the administrative staff and learning more about the organization and I thought it might be a good chance for me to get to know the staff better and to help them to be more comfortable with my presense (and to hopefully be helpful along the way!).
I entered the vestibule and traded my shoes for house slippers (you don't wear shoes inside anywhere in Thailand except for public buildings and shops) and said my "Sa-wa-dee, kas." Pong, offered me a seat and I sat. After a few minutes, I asked if I could help her with anything, to which she replied "mai bpen rai, ka," literray "nevermind or it doesn't matter," or in otherwords "no, thank you." So I thought I would ask Fawn. Same reply. Hmm. So I sat. And I sat. And I began to think over everything I'd ever read or heard about international volunteering. You are suppossed to be proactive, innovative, patient, open-minded and friendly. I had the friendly down pat.
Finally, Usana, came over and gave me a copy of the brochure that they want me to update. Relieved, I happily took out my pen and began editing, enjoying having something to do and being back in my element. After a few crossed out lines, some arrows and write ins, I realized that I was writing on a color brochure. Maybe this was the original... And it turned out that I was right. Pong came over and said, "I make copies from that. That is all I have." My heart sank, but was soon lifted by Vikram, who said, "mai bpen rai. You've done it. No use worrying" and I continued on with my edits. That afternoon, Usana gave me a list of topics to research and set me up on the Internet. I spent the rest of the afternoon feeling quite productive.
Today, most of the program staff is out of the office for the next few days doing training and so the office staff temporarily consists of the director, Sua, myself, Pong, Ni, and Usana. Sua is program staff, Usana is the head of administration, Pong is the office administrator and Ni is the general staff caretaker (cook, housekeeper, etc.) This morning I continued on my assignment from yesterday (research on Child Abuse Statistics both general and in Thailand). Since it was just Sua and I in the office, he really opened up and in between boughts of working, he would ask me questions about myself along with telling me about his wife and son and where he was from. He then started plying me with questions about English word meanings and pronunciations.
“How do you say “three?” Now how do you say “tree”? (Thai’s have a hard time pronouncing “th.”) "How do you say “sick”? Now how do you say “sixth”? “What is the difference between “pretty” and “beautiful”? “What about for a man? There is handsome and what else?” (For this we looked up “handsome” on thesauraus.com. I had no idea some of those words even existed! ) “Why do western women wear trousers and Thai women wear skirts? Do you have any skirts?”
All along, he taught me sayings and words in Thai. I can now say, “I really like the food here” and “I need to drink a lot of water. The weather is hot!” “Di-chan chawp ah-han nii mai, ka” and “Di-chan tong-khan deum naam ma. Ah-kaht ron!” respectively. He is also teaching me that some of the things in my lonely planet guide phrase book are considered rude. For example, “I don’t understand” according to lonely planet is “mai khao jai,” but he said if he “explain, explain, explain” something to me and I said afterward “mai, khao jai,” he would feel bad. So I should say, “Koh Todd, ka. Poot mai see, ka,” or “I’m sorry, please repeat that again.”
I suggested that maybe I could teach English to him and any of the other staff who were interested for 30 minutes a day or so (an idea given to my by our CCS director) and he was very agreeable. (I asked the director at lunch and he thought it would be great as well. After the English training last week and our back-and-forth this morning, I really think I am going to enjoy the lessons).
Lunch was just me, Sua, Pong and Ni and Sua proudly asked me “what are you doing?” pointing at my water bottle. “Di-chan duem naam (I drink water),” I replied and he lit up. We spent the rest of the meal going back and forth in very rudimentary English and Thai.When the director joined us, he explained to me that the research I was doing was for a concept paper that was to be part of a proposal for new project. He said that it would be about 1 – 2 pages. Then he said, “tomorrow, we will talk more about the paper and maybe you can write some of it… maybe 1 – 2 pages.” It turns out I might be helpful here after all.
Along with my success in the friendly department, I've also had to wrestle today with patience and innovation. I’ve found that internet research here is not as easy as it would be at home. For one there are the disconnections every 15 minutes. Also, the version of WORD here is in Thai, so if I want to insert a table or a page break or change the spacing, I have to work by trial and error, guessing at where the commands are on the menus in English. Most of the time I can figure them out but it was a huge accomplishment when I figured out how to change a table to text. I was quite proud. I encountered another hurdle when I tried to save the document I had created to a disk to be printed downstairs. For some reason WORD kept crashing every time I tried to save my document to a disk. I thought I would fool the computer and simply drag the files from my document folder to the A drive in Windows explorer, but it was on to me and explorer crashed when I tried to move the files. So finally, I came up with the bright idea of emailing the files to the HAT email and having Pong open them downstairs to print. After about 40 minutes of trying to upload the files between crashes – SUCCESS! Now I just hope the director is happy with what I put together!
Buddhism
Last night we had a guest speaker on Buddhism and Meditation – a Buddhist Nun, originally from Austria. She started out the conversation by saying, “I am probably not a good example of a Buddhist Nun,” and went on to win us all over with her tales of how she became a nun, her life as a nun and stories about the temple and meditation. She was originally from Austria and attended her first 2 months meditation retreat in Thailand 18 years ago. She said that she felt called to the life and has now been a nun in Thailand for 17 years. She is not your typical Buddhist nun in that she travels to Europe once a year to teach meditation and carries a cell phone wherever she goes. Her email address is “cybernun2002.”
When she began to talk about the practice of Buddhism, she said that she considers it, not so much a religion, as a philosophy of life. She talked about the five noble truths: 1. Suffering exists; 2. Suffering arises from attachment to desires; 3. Suffering ceases when attachment to desire ceases; 4. Freedom from suffering is possible by practicing the Eightfold Path. The Eightfold Path consists of Right View, Right Thought, Right Speech, Right Action, Right Livelihood, Right Effort, Right Mindfulness, Right Contemplation. She also talked about the importance of being mindful and staying in the present moment, something that can be learned through meditation.
She explained the five precepts that the monks have to follow: 1. Do not harm any living thing; 2. Do not take anything which is not freely given to you; 3. Do not participate in sexual misconduct; 4. Refrain from incorrect speech (lying, harsh language, slander, idle chit-chat); and 5. Abstain from alcohol and drugs. Practicing Buddhists are supposed to follow the first four. The nuns have eight, these five and then three more: 6. Do not wear ornaments or engage in entertaining activities (singing, dancing, etc.); 7. Do not sleep on a wide or comfortable bed; and 8. Do not eat after the noon hour. I need to look up why there are more for nuns than monks.
One story she told was that her teacher likened consuming alcohol to consuming the blood of four animals: the blood of a bird, the blood of a monkey, the blood of a snake and the blood of a pig. He said that when you drink, the first blood to come out is the blood of a bird (when you want to talk and talk and talk). The second to come out is the blood of a monkey (usually on the dance floor). The third to come out is the blood of a snake (when you sway side to side and can’t walk in a straight line) and the last to come out is the blood of a pig (when you just crash wherever you are and sleep for hours). I found that pretty amusing.
She described the typical day of a Buddhist nun: 3:30 a.m. rise; 4:00 – 6:00 morning meditation, 6:00 – 7:00 walking meditation; 7:00 – 8:00 preparing the morning meal (from the offerings brought back by the priests from the village); 8:00 – 9:00 morning meal and daily chores; 9:00 – 11:00 meditation; 11:00-12:00 break and more chores; 12:00 – 2:00 afternoon meditation; 2:00 – 3:00 chanting; 3:00 – 4:00 break/chores; 4:00 – 5:00 walking meditation; 5:00 – 7:00 evening meditation; 7:00 – 8:00 break; 8:00 – 9:00 walking meditation and bed (I may be off a little, but those were the basic elements of the day). I asked her if the Buddha taught compassion, how did the nuns practice compassion in their everyday lives if they didn’t leave the temple. She explained that, in Thailand, the temple is often the social center of the town and serves as a social meeting place, a place where people can come to seek counsel, a place for drug addicts and battered women to find refuge and the place where many ceremonies are held. So in between all of the meditation and chanting, the nuns act in a social work capacity.
After she finished her stories, one volunteer asked “What do you consider to be the meaning of life?” I thought that was a little strong for a first question, but she took it in stride and responded that, for her, the meaning of life is to do the most good you can with the life you have for yourself, your family, your community and society at large. I really liked her.
Many of the wats here offer meditation retreats for westerners. At her wat, she is the teacher, but she will be out of the country until the middle of July. If I want to study under her, I would have to extend my stay in Thailand, which is something I can decide later. Or I can always study at another wat. It definitely gave me a lot to think about.
When she began to talk about the practice of Buddhism, she said that she considers it, not so much a religion, as a philosophy of life. She talked about the five noble truths: 1. Suffering exists; 2. Suffering arises from attachment to desires; 3. Suffering ceases when attachment to desire ceases; 4. Freedom from suffering is possible by practicing the Eightfold Path. The Eightfold Path consists of Right View, Right Thought, Right Speech, Right Action, Right Livelihood, Right Effort, Right Mindfulness, Right Contemplation. She also talked about the importance of being mindful and staying in the present moment, something that can be learned through meditation.
She explained the five precepts that the monks have to follow: 1. Do not harm any living thing; 2. Do not take anything which is not freely given to you; 3. Do not participate in sexual misconduct; 4. Refrain from incorrect speech (lying, harsh language, slander, idle chit-chat); and 5. Abstain from alcohol and drugs. Practicing Buddhists are supposed to follow the first four. The nuns have eight, these five and then three more: 6. Do not wear ornaments or engage in entertaining activities (singing, dancing, etc.); 7. Do not sleep on a wide or comfortable bed; and 8. Do not eat after the noon hour. I need to look up why there are more for nuns than monks.
One story she told was that her teacher likened consuming alcohol to consuming the blood of four animals: the blood of a bird, the blood of a monkey, the blood of a snake and the blood of a pig. He said that when you drink, the first blood to come out is the blood of a bird (when you want to talk and talk and talk). The second to come out is the blood of a monkey (usually on the dance floor). The third to come out is the blood of a snake (when you sway side to side and can’t walk in a straight line) and the last to come out is the blood of a pig (when you just crash wherever you are and sleep for hours). I found that pretty amusing.
She described the typical day of a Buddhist nun: 3:30 a.m. rise; 4:00 – 6:00 morning meditation, 6:00 – 7:00 walking meditation; 7:00 – 8:00 preparing the morning meal (from the offerings brought back by the priests from the village); 8:00 – 9:00 morning meal and daily chores; 9:00 – 11:00 meditation; 11:00-12:00 break and more chores; 12:00 – 2:00 afternoon meditation; 2:00 – 3:00 chanting; 3:00 – 4:00 break/chores; 4:00 – 5:00 walking meditation; 5:00 – 7:00 evening meditation; 7:00 – 8:00 break; 8:00 – 9:00 walking meditation and bed (I may be off a little, but those were the basic elements of the day). I asked her if the Buddha taught compassion, how did the nuns practice compassion in their everyday lives if they didn’t leave the temple. She explained that, in Thailand, the temple is often the social center of the town and serves as a social meeting place, a place where people can come to seek counsel, a place for drug addicts and battered women to find refuge and the place where many ceremonies are held. So in between all of the meditation and chanting, the nuns act in a social work capacity.
After she finished her stories, one volunteer asked “What do you consider to be the meaning of life?” I thought that was a little strong for a first question, but she took it in stride and responded that, for her, the meaning of life is to do the most good you can with the life you have for yourself, your family, your community and society at large. I really liked her.
Many of the wats here offer meditation retreats for westerners. At her wat, she is the teacher, but she will be out of the country until the middle of July. If I want to study under her, I would have to extend my stay in Thailand, which is something I can decide later. Or I can always study at another wat. It definitely gave me a lot to think about.
Monday, March 28, 2005
Ko Samet
This weekend, two of the other volunteers and I went to Ko Samet (you have to scroll through to see all of the pictures - click "next page"), one of Thailands many islands. We had planned to leave on Friday evening, but did not get back from Lopburi until late, so we decided to leave early Saturday morning. Up at 5:45, we left for the bus station to catch our bus to Ban Phe where you catch the ferry to Ko Samet. We arrived at 6:30 purchased our tickets for the 7:00 a.m. bus for 97 bhat (about $2.50). The bus was airconditioned, but there wasn't much leg room, so I spent much of the journey trying in vain to get comfortable. Luckily, I was able to get a little sleep.
The bus dropped us off at the pier for ferries to Ko Samet where we bought our 50 bhat tickets headed across. The trip across took about 30 minutes, but seemed like much less. It had started raining during the last 10 minutes of our bus ride, but cleared up before we boarded the ferry. The stretch of the Gulf between the shore and the island was dotted with ferries, ancient looking fishing boats and snazzy new speed boats. There was even on Thai fisherman in an old longboat with a bamboo pole.
When we arrived at the pier, there was no room for the ferry to dock, so they simply docked next to another ferry and we jumped from one to the other to the pier. The entrance to Ko Samet was not what I expected, but it was true to it's "backpacker haven" reputation. The main road to the beaches is lined with shops and cafes, similar to what you'd see in other beach towns in developing countries. We had read to skip the first beach, which is the most touristy and expensive and headed down the road to the beaches farther down the east coast of the island. As we walked along the dirt road, we were passed by numerous pick-up trucks (or songthaews) filled with people heading to the beaches. Always the budget traveler, I had read that the beaches were close and that there was no need to pay for a ride, and luckily I was right.
We soon left the road and began walking along the coast. According to my Rough Guide, the farther down you go, the more secluded the beaches become. We found that this was somewhat the case and in a very "bear went over the mountain" fashion, we found a new beach each time we rounded a corner. We finally stopped at about the third beach, figuring that we could always stay at one and walk to the other. We got a bungalow at the AO Phi huts (pictures in the island pictures above) for 1200 bhat (about 30 dollars) with a view of the beach. We had lunch at one of the many restaurants on the beach and spent the rest of the afternoon walking down the east coast, over beaches, over rocky outcroppings; and swimming in the warm, clear blue waters of the Gulf.
We made it back to our hut around 6:00 and went back down to the beach for dinner and drinks. I ordered the same thing, pan-fried noodles with squid, three times on the island and each time it was different and each time it was delicious - although not once did I get squid, but the shrimp was plentiful. When it got dark, we were treated to a fire dance on the beach. The bar connected to the restaurant began playing American dance and hip-hop and we joined the other tourists and Thais on the dance floor and had a ball.
I woke up at about 8:15 and headed down to the beach. After a luxurious brunch of what?, pan friend noodles and shrimp, we checked out of our hut and headed back for the long journey home. It was a really nice way to spend the weekend - minus the 4-5 hour travel time!
The bus dropped us off at the pier for ferries to Ko Samet where we bought our 50 bhat tickets headed across. The trip across took about 30 minutes, but seemed like much less. It had started raining during the last 10 minutes of our bus ride, but cleared up before we boarded the ferry. The stretch of the Gulf between the shore and the island was dotted with ferries, ancient looking fishing boats and snazzy new speed boats. There was even on Thai fisherman in an old longboat with a bamboo pole.
When we arrived at the pier, there was no room for the ferry to dock, so they simply docked next to another ferry and we jumped from one to the other to the pier. The entrance to Ko Samet was not what I expected, but it was true to it's "backpacker haven" reputation. The main road to the beaches is lined with shops and cafes, similar to what you'd see in other beach towns in developing countries. We had read to skip the first beach, which is the most touristy and expensive and headed down the road to the beaches farther down the east coast of the island. As we walked along the dirt road, we were passed by numerous pick-up trucks (or songthaews) filled with people heading to the beaches. Always the budget traveler, I had read that the beaches were close and that there was no need to pay for a ride, and luckily I was right.
We soon left the road and began walking along the coast. According to my Rough Guide, the farther down you go, the more secluded the beaches become. We found that this was somewhat the case and in a very "bear went over the mountain" fashion, we found a new beach each time we rounded a corner. We finally stopped at about the third beach, figuring that we could always stay at one and walk to the other. We got a bungalow at the AO Phi huts (pictures in the island pictures above) for 1200 bhat (about 30 dollars) with a view of the beach. We had lunch at one of the many restaurants on the beach and spent the rest of the afternoon walking down the east coast, over beaches, over rocky outcroppings; and swimming in the warm, clear blue waters of the Gulf.
We made it back to our hut around 6:00 and went back down to the beach for dinner and drinks. I ordered the same thing, pan-fried noodles with squid, three times on the island and each time it was different and each time it was delicious - although not once did I get squid, but the shrimp was plentiful. When it got dark, we were treated to a fire dance on the beach. The bar connected to the restaurant began playing American dance and hip-hop and we joined the other tourists and Thais on the dance floor and had a ball.
I woke up at about 8:15 and headed down to the beach. After a luxurious brunch of what?, pan friend noodles and shrimp, we checked out of our hut and headed back for the long journey home. It was a really nice way to spend the weekend - minus the 4-5 hour travel time!
Friday, March 25, 2005
Paper Flowers and Tiny Feet
Wednesday, we went to the annual funeral ceremony at the Bang Khae Home for the Aged. I believe the bodies are preserved until this day, when they are all cremated in a communal ceremony. A monk spoke first about each of the diseased and about how the home is a place for people to live and be cared for in their old age when their families can no longer care for them (or so I was told, the whole ceremony was in Thai). Then we were treated to a traditional Thai dance. After the dancing, we were all given paper flower arrangements that we placed on the "alter" near the coffins out of respect for the dead.
At one point, Foon motioned to me that someone wanted to speak to me. It was a woman who lived at the home and spoke perfect English. She was in her eighties and asked where I was from and why I was there and shared some stories about herself. She was a boyscout leader and a royal staff member. She traveled to 10 different countries in the region working on children's issues. She asked me to come back to visit her. I hope to have some time either this week or next to stop in to say hello.
After the funeral, we went to a local Thai boxing camp. Instead of taking us to a match, something anyone can do, CCS took us to a local camp where kids from the neighborhood can come to train. Often, if a family doesn't have a lot of money, they will send their sons to box for money. The kids we saw there all seemed to really enjoy it and obviously looked up to the older fighters. The camp was in the middle of a lower-class Thai village, with closely spaced houses, no bigger than a room and interlaced with canals and bridges. Following our guide through this maze, we arrived at the camp, which was a large covered area with a boxing ring in the middle and an area to the side with mats and punching bags. There were three older fighters and about 12 young boys about 8 - 10.
First they treated us to a "fake" match, which was still pretty rough. Thai boxing is unlike US boxing in that there is much more use of the legs. If you don't watch out, you can get a brutal kick to the head. Before the match, the boxers perform some sort of dancing routine, which was very foreign to me as boxing in the States is such a "manly" sport. After their dances, they fought three short rounds, with a lot of staged falls. The young boys really enjoyed it and shouted out encouragement when things got rough. After that match, the youngest champion fighter came out and sparred with an older man (using pads for him to punch and kick). This little guy probably weighed no more than 50 pounds and his legs were about the size of my arms, but I wouldn't want to cross him! Afterwards, they showed us how to do some of the moves and we took a picture with the kids. Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera, but the other volunteers got pictures and will post then within the next few weeks.
At one point, Foon motioned to me that someone wanted to speak to me. It was a woman who lived at the home and spoke perfect English. She was in her eighties and asked where I was from and why I was there and shared some stories about herself. She was a boyscout leader and a royal staff member. She traveled to 10 different countries in the region working on children's issues. She asked me to come back to visit her. I hope to have some time either this week or next to stop in to say hello.
After the funeral, we went to a local Thai boxing camp. Instead of taking us to a match, something anyone can do, CCS took us to a local camp where kids from the neighborhood can come to train. Often, if a family doesn't have a lot of money, they will send their sons to box for money. The kids we saw there all seemed to really enjoy it and obviously looked up to the older fighters. The camp was in the middle of a lower-class Thai village, with closely spaced houses, no bigger than a room and interlaced with canals and bridges. Following our guide through this maze, we arrived at the camp, which was a large covered area with a boxing ring in the middle and an area to the side with mats and punching bags. There were three older fighters and about 12 young boys about 8 - 10.
First they treated us to a "fake" match, which was still pretty rough. Thai boxing is unlike US boxing in that there is much more use of the legs. If you don't watch out, you can get a brutal kick to the head. Before the match, the boxers perform some sort of dancing routine, which was very foreign to me as boxing in the States is such a "manly" sport. After their dances, they fought three short rounds, with a lot of staged falls. The young boys really enjoyed it and shouted out encouragement when things got rough. After that match, the youngest champion fighter came out and sparred with an older man (using pads for him to punch and kick). This little guy probably weighed no more than 50 pounds and his legs were about the size of my arms, but I wouldn't want to cross him! Afterwards, they showed us how to do some of the moves and we took a picture with the kids. Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera, but the other volunteers got pictures and will post then within the next few weeks.
Lopburi
Today we traveled to Lopburi, about two and a half hours north of Bangkok to visit and HIV/AIDS Hospice, Wat Phra Bhat Nam Phu. We were greeted at the entrance be a garden of stone statutes of various human forms. One was of a human form, its face contorted, its arms reach up, but cut off a few inches past the shoulder. I wasn't sure if that was intentional or simply decay, but soon found that it was intentional. The hospice houses around 400 patients and their rate of death is about 2 to 3 a day on average. I had no idea that that number of people living with HIV/AIDS in Thailand was so high, about one in every 55 people. The patients at the hospice are often living there not only for the care, but also because the stigma about AIDS and the lack of knowledge of modes of transmission is so high.
Walking into the reception area, we were offered photo albums. The pictures depicted the patients in the hospice, some enjoying daily activities, but many more, on hospital beds, barely more than skeletons. Little did I know that the our next stop was to visit some of these very patients. We were taken to the hospital room were about 12 patients in various conditions were laying on hospital gurnies. There was no air-condition, but the room was clean and neat. Most of them were sleeping or covered in blankets, but those who were awake responded to our wai's with smiles and a wai in return.
From there, we went to an area with a Buddha image surrounded by thousands of white bags, which, as were were told, were the ashes of the patients who had died there since its inception - over 10,000. The ashes were always sent to their families, but more often then not, were returned as undeliverable.
The next room was a room which housed the mummified remains of patients who wanted their bodies donated for science and study. Some of these were encased in glass coffins, but others were simply laying out in the open. Many still had their hair and three were small children. It was hard to see, but also in many ways didn't seem real.
After the tour, we were treated to a cabaret show put on by patients of the community. After each skit, the patients were identified by age and how they contracted the disease. One very striking young woman, turned out to be a 16 year old boy who had contracted the disease through sexual transmission. Two middle aged women had contracted it through their husbands and another woman had been gang raped at a factory where she worked.
One of the shows, starred a Thai ladyboy (see below, none of the sites I found to link to were appropriate for a family friendly blog), who was obviously not a lady, who picked an unsuspecting visitor out of the audience and proceeded to give him a lap dance. The poor man was obviously uncomfortable, but it made for an amusing scene for the rest of the audience.
After the shows, the audience was asked for donations (I believe that a portion of our program fee goes to the organizations that we visit.
After the AIDS temple, we went into town to visit the monkey temple, which is literally overrun with monkeys. If you sit down, you are inviting monkeys to jump on your shoulders, pick through your hair or run off with any of your loose possessions. We enjoyed watching the other tourists go through this, but the term "ebola" kept running through my mind as we watched, and I kept my distance.
Addendum
Thai Ladyboys:
They are called ladyboys, shemales, transsexuals or hermaphrodites, born as a man with the soul of a woman many transsexuals feel themselves caught in the wrong body.
The Kathoeys (ladyboys), as they are called in the national language, count among the most beautiful of the world. Due to the centuries old tradition of Thai ladyboy dancers, who in earlier times performed their art even before the king, Kathoeys are largely accepted in Thai society. All over the country beauty pageants take place, much to the enthusiasm of the population. The most beautiful Kathoeys are awarded prizes. To win one of those competitions is a great honour for the ladies. Compared to other countries Thailand boasts above-average numbers of transsexuals and transvestites. Strolling through the streets of Bangkok it is not unusual to encounter several of the pretty shemales. Due to their mostly tender physiques Thai Kathoeys appear very feminine and are for the untrained eye hard to tell from a girl.
Walking into the reception area, we were offered photo albums. The pictures depicted the patients in the hospice, some enjoying daily activities, but many more, on hospital beds, barely more than skeletons. Little did I know that the our next stop was to visit some of these very patients. We were taken to the hospital room were about 12 patients in various conditions were laying on hospital gurnies. There was no air-condition, but the room was clean and neat. Most of them were sleeping or covered in blankets, but those who were awake responded to our wai's with smiles and a wai in return.
From there, we went to an area with a Buddha image surrounded by thousands of white bags, which, as were were told, were the ashes of the patients who had died there since its inception - over 10,000. The ashes were always sent to their families, but more often then not, were returned as undeliverable.
The next room was a room which housed the mummified remains of patients who wanted their bodies donated for science and study. Some of these were encased in glass coffins, but others were simply laying out in the open. Many still had their hair and three were small children. It was hard to see, but also in many ways didn't seem real.
After the tour, we were treated to a cabaret show put on by patients of the community. After each skit, the patients were identified by age and how they contracted the disease. One very striking young woman, turned out to be a 16 year old boy who had contracted the disease through sexual transmission. Two middle aged women had contracted it through their husbands and another woman had been gang raped at a factory where she worked.
One of the shows, starred a Thai ladyboy (see below, none of the sites I found to link to were appropriate for a family friendly blog), who was obviously not a lady, who picked an unsuspecting visitor out of the audience and proceeded to give him a lap dance. The poor man was obviously uncomfortable, but it made for an amusing scene for the rest of the audience.
After the shows, the audience was asked for donations (I believe that a portion of our program fee goes to the organizations that we visit.
After the AIDS temple, we went into town to visit the monkey temple, which is literally overrun with monkeys. If you sit down, you are inviting monkeys to jump on your shoulders, pick through your hair or run off with any of your loose possessions. We enjoyed watching the other tourists go through this, but the term "ebola" kept running through my mind as we watched, and I kept my distance.
Addendum
Thai Ladyboys:
They are called ladyboys, shemales, transsexuals or hermaphrodites, born as a man with the soul of a woman many transsexuals feel themselves caught in the wrong body.
The Kathoeys (ladyboys), as they are called in the national language, count among the most beautiful of the world. Due to the centuries old tradition of Thai ladyboy dancers, who in earlier times performed their art even before the king, Kathoeys are largely accepted in Thai society. All over the country beauty pageants take place, much to the enthusiasm of the population. The most beautiful Kathoeys are awarded prizes. To win one of those competitions is a great honour for the ladies. Compared to other countries Thailand boasts above-average numbers of transsexuals and transvestites. Strolling through the streets of Bangkok it is not unusual to encounter several of the pretty shemales. Due to their mostly tender physiques Thai Kathoeys appear very feminine and are for the untrained eye hard to tell from a girl.
Refrigerators and Wardrobes
On Thursday CCS had set up an English camp for the teachers at a local school and we all agreed to help, relieving us from our placements for the day. The camp was divided into three sections: my home (where teachers would learn the words for the rooms in their homes and things in the rooms); my school; and an internet section where they would learn to search for things on the internet. The final section would teach them the English words for all of the ingredients and steps in making Thai spicy papaya salad and would then have to explain in English before making the salad.
There were about 30 teachers and almost all of them were married women in their 40's and 50's. For the initial ice breaker exercise we gathered into a circle and there was a space left between two people. These people were then to grab hands and seek out someone else in the circle to fill the gap, thereby creating another gap. The two new people on each side of this gap were to do the same, until the music stopped, leaving those not in the circle to come up and introduce themselves. After one round, we started with two gaps and the result was mass chaos and plenty of hysterics.
I was in the 'my home' group with Ellie, another volunteer from England. We had a model of a house and drawings of the various rooms taped up on the wall. After talking about the various rooms and items in the rooms from the model, the teachers were to find the word for the items in the rooms and the picture, match them up and tape them to the corresponding room on the wall. After this, they were asked to write, in English, a description of a house.
The women were all very good natured and interested in learning, repeating the English words for household items with serious determination. Because I am from the US and Ellie is from the UK, we often gave them two words for the same object (Sofa/Couch, Wardrobe/Closet, Cooker/Stove, Cupboard/Cabinets). The words that gave everyone the most trouble were "wardrobe" and "refrigerator" and the results were quite amusing (to both the women and volunteers). "Wardrobe" most often came out "Wartheb" and "refrigerator" was just unintelligible. A few of the women got it after a while, but it made us realize not only how ridiculous we must sound trying to proonounce Thai words, but also how difficult it is to learn English as a second language. The few who did get the words down often became so excited that they would run around the room yelling out the word. They all seemed to enjoy the class and each other.
After the three sessions, we all joined together again for the salad making. After teaching them the words for all of the items and the motions necessary to make the salad (peel, chop, grind, etc.), we asked them to write the steps down and present them in English. One thing I have yet to mention here is the vast difference in the reception of western men and western women from Thai women. Thai women love western men; women are tolerated. Tony (tall, handsome, 25 and married) was offered various hands in marriage and one woman said that she was too old for marriage, but when she died she would like to be fertilizer in his garden (one of the more disturbing things I have ever heard. Bill (64, retired, slightly over-weight) had a women bowing at his feet proclaiming her love in between steps to make papaya salad.
There were about 30 teachers and almost all of them were married women in their 40's and 50's. For the initial ice breaker exercise we gathered into a circle and there was a space left between two people. These people were then to grab hands and seek out someone else in the circle to fill the gap, thereby creating another gap. The two new people on each side of this gap were to do the same, until the music stopped, leaving those not in the circle to come up and introduce themselves. After one round, we started with two gaps and the result was mass chaos and plenty of hysterics.
I was in the 'my home' group with Ellie, another volunteer from England. We had a model of a house and drawings of the various rooms taped up on the wall. After talking about the various rooms and items in the rooms from the model, the teachers were to find the word for the items in the rooms and the picture, match them up and tape them to the corresponding room on the wall. After this, they were asked to write, in English, a description of a house.
The women were all very good natured and interested in learning, repeating the English words for household items with serious determination. Because I am from the US and Ellie is from the UK, we often gave them two words for the same object (Sofa/Couch, Wardrobe/Closet, Cooker/Stove, Cupboard/Cabinets). The words that gave everyone the most trouble were "wardrobe" and "refrigerator" and the results were quite amusing (to both the women and volunteers). "Wardrobe" most often came out "Wartheb" and "refrigerator" was just unintelligible. A few of the women got it after a while, but it made us realize not only how ridiculous we must sound trying to proonounce Thai words, but also how difficult it is to learn English as a second language. The few who did get the words down often became so excited that they would run around the room yelling out the word. They all seemed to enjoy the class and each other.
After the three sessions, we all joined together again for the salad making. After teaching them the words for all of the items and the motions necessary to make the salad (peel, chop, grind, etc.), we asked them to write the steps down and present them in English. One thing I have yet to mention here is the vast difference in the reception of western men and western women from Thai women. Thai women love western men; women are tolerated. Tony (tall, handsome, 25 and married) was offered various hands in marriage and one woman said that she was too old for marriage, but when she died she would like to be fertilizer in his garden (one of the more disturbing things I have ever heard. Bill (64, retired, slightly over-weight) had a women bowing at his feet proclaiming her love in between steps to make papaya salad.
The women then returned to their tables and began making the salad. One woman broke out a tambourine and her whole group began singing and dancing as they worked. It made for a very festive end to a great day.
Wednesday, March 23, 2005
Culture Shock
I have realized that traveling in another country is one thing; living and "working" in another country is another. Culture Shock is defined as a condition of confusion and anxiety affecting a person suddenly exposed to an alien culture or milieu. I can't say I am confused or anxious, but this is definitely the end of the honeymoon period and the beginning of the hard work.
Monday was my first day at my placement and I found myself in an office, surrounded by people who speak a language I haven't even begun to comprehend (aside from surface pleasantries) and I was completely at their mercy. A bit disconcerting to realize when you're in the midst of it. The office staff includes two women in administration, four program staff (three men and one woman), one driver (or that I was I assume his position to be) and the executive director. The women in administration were very nice, greeting me and buying me flowers for my birthday. The men in the program staff are Vikram, an older gentleman who speaks English well enough to communicate and is very funny and happy to chat; Champ, who is 21 and quiet so far; Moo, who is the only woman and hasn't said much, and Sua, who is about 40 and looks like an Asian gangster with an expression to match. He hadn't said a word to me.
At lunch, all of the staff eat together and they invited me to join them. Once in a while, one of the men who spoke English would clue me in as to their conversation, but for the most part, I ate and smiled. Near the end of the meal, the conversation came around to what my Thai nickname would be. The threw a few things around - putting me in an uncomfortable spot, knowing the conversation was about me and having no clue as to what they were saying - at one point one of the woman from administration pointed at a lemon and said "lemon" in Thai and the director explained to me that she had suggested a lemon because "it is sour like (your) actions"!!! I couldn't even begin to understand where I'd gone wrong. All I'd done all morning was nod and smile and try to look interested. "Slow" or "mute," I could understand, but "sour"?? Luckily for me "lemon" was discarded and they decided that I should come up with my own nickname.
We spent the afternoon discussing my schedule for the next 10 weeks, afterwhich I happily jumped in a cab back to CCS.
Tuesday and Wednesday were spent in a day care that is somehow connected to the organization. There were two teachers and a director (or so I believe that is his position). Neither of the teachers speak English, so the director was my sole interpreter.
The Thai's are a very hospitable people and I was constantly plied with drinks and food and questioned as to my emotional state, "are you happy???" To which I would respond with my most un-sour radiant smile, "yes, I am very happy!" I spent the days observing the kids and playing a bit (today I brought in paper and crayons for them to draw), but mostly talking with the director, assuming "talk" does not imply comprehension. He speaks little English but seems to read and write better than he speaks and understands. We passed the days with conversations that went a little something like this:
Director: "You Thailand see here?"
Me: "I'm sorry?"
Director: "You Thailand SEE HERE?"
Me: "Oh.. Yes!...?"
Director nods happily.
Director: "Someone like something, some not."
Me: "Yes!" Nodding smiling in affirmation.
Director beaming.
Director: "You like apples?"
Me: "Yes, I like apples." Smile.
Me: "How long have you worked here?"
Director: Look of abject confusion, wrinkled brow.
Me: "You work here, how long?"
Director: "Ahh. 10 year." Smiles.
Monday was my first day at my placement and I found myself in an office, surrounded by people who speak a language I haven't even begun to comprehend (aside from surface pleasantries) and I was completely at their mercy. A bit disconcerting to realize when you're in the midst of it. The office staff includes two women in administration, four program staff (three men and one woman), one driver (or that I was I assume his position to be) and the executive director. The women in administration were very nice, greeting me and buying me flowers for my birthday. The men in the program staff are Vikram, an older gentleman who speaks English well enough to communicate and is very funny and happy to chat; Champ, who is 21 and quiet so far; Moo, who is the only woman and hasn't said much, and Sua, who is about 40 and looks like an Asian gangster with an expression to match. He hadn't said a word to me.
At lunch, all of the staff eat together and they invited me to join them. Once in a while, one of the men who spoke English would clue me in as to their conversation, but for the most part, I ate and smiled. Near the end of the meal, the conversation came around to what my Thai nickname would be. The threw a few things around - putting me in an uncomfortable spot, knowing the conversation was about me and having no clue as to what they were saying - at one point one of the woman from administration pointed at a lemon and said "lemon" in Thai and the director explained to me that she had suggested a lemon because "it is sour like (your) actions"!!! I couldn't even begin to understand where I'd gone wrong. All I'd done all morning was nod and smile and try to look interested. "Slow" or "mute," I could understand, but "sour"?? Luckily for me "lemon" was discarded and they decided that I should come up with my own nickname.
We spent the afternoon discussing my schedule for the next 10 weeks, afterwhich I happily jumped in a cab back to CCS.
Tuesday and Wednesday were spent in a day care that is somehow connected to the organization. There were two teachers and a director (or so I believe that is his position). Neither of the teachers speak English, so the director was my sole interpreter.
The Thai's are a very hospitable people and I was constantly plied with drinks and food and questioned as to my emotional state, "are you happy???" To which I would respond with my most un-sour radiant smile, "yes, I am very happy!" I spent the days observing the kids and playing a bit (today I brought in paper and crayons for them to draw), but mostly talking with the director, assuming "talk" does not imply comprehension. He speaks little English but seems to read and write better than he speaks and understands. We passed the days with conversations that went a little something like this:
Director: "You Thailand see here?"
Me: "I'm sorry?"
Director: "You Thailand SEE HERE?"
Me: "Oh.. Yes!...?"
Director nods happily.
Director: "Someone like something, some not."
Me: "Yes!" Nodding smiling in affirmation.
Director beaming.
Director: "You like apples?"
Me: "Yes, I like apples." Smile.
Me: "How long have you worked here?"
Director: Look of abject confusion, wrinkled brow.
Me: "You work here, how long?"
Director: "Ahh. 10 year." Smiles.
Needless to say, I need to spend my spare time working on my Thai!!
Tuesday, March 22, 2005
Monday, March 21, 2005
Happy Birthday to Me
I have officially been 28 for about 5 hours, but here - it has been my birthday all day. Today was the first day of my placement at HAT - Reproductive Health for Quality of Life Association of Thailand and it is going to be a busy 11 weeks! (I can't set up links at this cafe, so I am going to have to come back and add them later). This week I will be visiting - you'll never guess - another day care! This one was set up by HAT with the local community to improve the health of the local children and is in a low income part of town (don't worry mom - I will be chaparoned!). Thursday, CCS is holding an English training day for teachers at a local school, so I will only be at the daycare for two days. What a disappointment! ;)
The following week I will be working in the office - they want me to redesign their brochure - a contribution I will be happy to make. The third week, I will be visiting various local projects (HIV/AIDS education sites, an anti-drug and tobacco program at a local school and a consumer protection project). The forth week is Songkran, Thai New Year, so I have the week off - Hello Paradise. The fifth week, I will be traveling with them to their elephant trail project where they are working with the local population to permit the wild elephants to cross their land in a predetermined path so that they can reach other herds and not have to resort to inbreeding or come to their end at the hands of locals who don't want elephants in their fields. I was asked if I would mind sleeping in a tent. Would I mind?!?! The rest of the weeks are more projects sites and a few trainings. It is going to be busy.
The organization is really fascinating. It started off as a reproductive health organization, but has morphed with the needs of the communities they serve to working on any project that promotes "quality of life," which include sanitation, anti-drug campaigns, micro-enterprise projects, the promotion of bio-fertilizer over chemical fertilizer and more. Their approach is the find out what the communities need and form steering committies of local citizens to run the projects themselves. HAT simply trains the volunteers and supervises the project providing technical training. A lot like where I worked in NYC and very much my ideal. It's amazing the path life takes.
Tonight, CCS staff took all of the volunteers out to dinner, Thai style - which is basically copious amounts of food that never stop coming and you are expected to EAT. I really enjoy the staff and they are so much more like family and friends than people I just met last week. We had two birthday cakes, one for me and one for another volunteer, whose birthday was yesterday. It was a great way to spend the day.
The following week I will be working in the office - they want me to redesign their brochure - a contribution I will be happy to make. The third week, I will be visiting various local projects (HIV/AIDS education sites, an anti-drug and tobacco program at a local school and a consumer protection project). The forth week is Songkran, Thai New Year, so I have the week off - Hello Paradise. The fifth week, I will be traveling with them to their elephant trail project where they are working with the local population to permit the wild elephants to cross their land in a predetermined path so that they can reach other herds and not have to resort to inbreeding or come to their end at the hands of locals who don't want elephants in their fields. I was asked if I would mind sleeping in a tent. Would I mind?!?! The rest of the weeks are more projects sites and a few trainings. It is going to be busy.
The organization is really fascinating. It started off as a reproductive health organization, but has morphed with the needs of the communities they serve to working on any project that promotes "quality of life," which include sanitation, anti-drug campaigns, micro-enterprise projects, the promotion of bio-fertilizer over chemical fertilizer and more. Their approach is the find out what the communities need and form steering committies of local citizens to run the projects themselves. HAT simply trains the volunteers and supervises the project providing technical training. A lot like where I worked in NYC and very much my ideal. It's amazing the path life takes.
Tonight, CCS staff took all of the volunteers out to dinner, Thai style - which is basically copious amounts of food that never stop coming and you are expected to EAT. I really enjoy the staff and they are so much more like family and friends than people I just met last week. We had two birthday cakes, one for me and one for another volunteer, whose birthday was yesterday. It was a great way to spend the day.
A Weekend in Bangkok
Most of the volunteers took the opportunity of the three day weekend (all of our weekends as three day weeks... ah.. the life..) to travel to various places, but I elected to stick around Bangkok and get my bearings. Two of the other volunteers stayed as well, one because he has been sick and the other because he has a short time in Thailand and wanted to see the sights of Bangkok.
Transportation options abound in Bangkok. You can take a taxi to the river, a boat across the river and a tuk-tuk to your destination. Or you can take a bus or a motorcycle taxi or walk. Once in the city, you can take to subway or the skytrain. We decided to walk to the river, take a ferry across and then a cab from there (the cabs here are really cheap with the initial fare starting at 37 bhat - 1 dollar - and most rides being under $2 (unless you have a long way to go)). Our first stop was the forensic museum in the local hospital, which is home to be preserved body of Thailand's first serial killer. Unfortunately, it is closed on Saturdays. From there we headed to the river and across with our ultimate destination being Siam Square, home of two of the biggest malls I have ever seen. Six story malls; where you can purchase t-shirts for 3000 bhat (about $100 dollars!). Neither of us being mall people, we didn't spend too much time there, but it was interesting to see. There are very few American stores.
After the malls, we wandered across one of the many elevated pedestrian bridges to where a crowd was gathering outside of a large department store. Apparently they do product promotions in this particular spot and the brand for the day was Ponds. We couldn't tell what was going on, aside from the advertising aspect. There were four young men with microphones and a group of about 40 young girls in Ponds t-shirts. We surmised that it might be some sort of model search.
From there we wandered to Lumpini Park, one of Bangkok's large parks and rented a paddle boat, which was quite amusing because it was abnormally difficult to peddle. With great effort, we paddled over to a small bridge for the shade and spent a few minutes enjoying the Thai graffiti (Thai's traditionally have very long names and hence have adopted the practice of picking up a "pet name," which is usually three or four letters long. These made for some very amusing graffiti). My favorite was "Big loves Poo."
That evening, exhausted from our walking tour of Bangkok, we decided to treat ourselves to a movie, Gold Class. Now I have been to some posh movie theaters in my day, but none have come close to Bangkok's Gold Class. You average Joe movie goer will pay about 240 bhat for a movie with regular theater seats (more on this later as I haven't seen such a theater), while your finicky movie goer, for a whopping 300 bhat goes first class - Gold Class. Gold class theaters replace theater seats with Lazy Boy recliners. I am not kidding. They are huge and immensely comfortable. The back row is line with love seats (and while I cannot attest to their comfort level - they sure looked inviting!) and the first two rows have recliners. Between each recliner is a small table where the cocktail waitress will bring your meal or your poison of choice (the "snack bar" is a fully stocked liquor bar). Because there are only a few Gold Class theaters, you have a small selection of moves (in English with Thai subtitles or in Thai) so we settled for The Ring Two, which, I am sorry to say, fell far short of its predecessor. But the experience was worth it!
One Sunday we went to the Chatuchak weekend market - by foot, ferry and sky train. The Sky Train is a great way to see the city: air conditioned, no traffic and cheaper than a taxi for long distances. Chatuchak is HUGE and it is impossible to see everything in a few hours or possibly even a few days. Tony wanted to add to his collection of "engrish" t-shirts (t-shirts with horribly mis-spelled sayings or those that make absolutely no sense at all) and I wanted to get sun-glasses, a calculator (to keep track of my bhat expenditure) and a tank top (did I mention Bangkok is HOT?).
Foon likes to say that you can buy anything at Chatuchak except a house or an airplane and he isn't far off. The little that we saw in three hours included various crafts, clothes, shoes, food, household items, tools, furniture, pets and much more that I can't recall. What stood out the most was the pets. The place was crawling with puppies and you couldn't get away from them. It was really sad because it was obvious that they had been taken away from their mothers too soon and they had to be so hot. I wanted to buy them all! They also had baby squirrels that looked like they had literally been stolen from their nests that morning, tied by their necks with string and not at all happy about it (I later learned from Foon that this is illegal).
We found a t-shirt stand and spent about 20 minutes in hysterics digging through the piles of shirts. I wish I could remember what they said. I'll have to make more notes next time. I got myself a 59 bhat shirt, a 37 bhat t-shirt, a 45 bhat calculator and a great pair of sunglasses for 150 bhat (about 38 bhat to the dollar).
After about three hours, we were beat and headed back to the house for dinner and a nap. We topped the weekend off at our neighborhood bar and felt very satisfied with ourselves!
Transportation options abound in Bangkok. You can take a taxi to the river, a boat across the river and a tuk-tuk to your destination. Or you can take a bus or a motorcycle taxi or walk. Once in the city, you can take to subway or the skytrain. We decided to walk to the river, take a ferry across and then a cab from there (the cabs here are really cheap with the initial fare starting at 37 bhat - 1 dollar - and most rides being under $2 (unless you have a long way to go)). Our first stop was the forensic museum in the local hospital, which is home to be preserved body of Thailand's first serial killer. Unfortunately, it is closed on Saturdays. From there we headed to the river and across with our ultimate destination being Siam Square, home of two of the biggest malls I have ever seen. Six story malls; where you can purchase t-shirts for 3000 bhat (about $100 dollars!). Neither of us being mall people, we didn't spend too much time there, but it was interesting to see. There are very few American stores.
After the malls, we wandered across one of the many elevated pedestrian bridges to where a crowd was gathering outside of a large department store. Apparently they do product promotions in this particular spot and the brand for the day was Ponds. We couldn't tell what was going on, aside from the advertising aspect. There were four young men with microphones and a group of about 40 young girls in Ponds t-shirts. We surmised that it might be some sort of model search.
From there we wandered to Lumpini Park, one of Bangkok's large parks and rented a paddle boat, which was quite amusing because it was abnormally difficult to peddle. With great effort, we paddled over to a small bridge for the shade and spent a few minutes enjoying the Thai graffiti (Thai's traditionally have very long names and hence have adopted the practice of picking up a "pet name," which is usually three or four letters long. These made for some very amusing graffiti). My favorite was "Big loves Poo."
That evening, exhausted from our walking tour of Bangkok, we decided to treat ourselves to a movie, Gold Class. Now I have been to some posh movie theaters in my day, but none have come close to Bangkok's Gold Class. You average Joe movie goer will pay about 240 bhat for a movie with regular theater seats (more on this later as I haven't seen such a theater), while your finicky movie goer, for a whopping 300 bhat goes first class - Gold Class. Gold class theaters replace theater seats with Lazy Boy recliners. I am not kidding. They are huge and immensely comfortable. The back row is line with love seats (and while I cannot attest to their comfort level - they sure looked inviting!) and the first two rows have recliners. Between each recliner is a small table where the cocktail waitress will bring your meal or your poison of choice (the "snack bar" is a fully stocked liquor bar). Because there are only a few Gold Class theaters, you have a small selection of moves (in English with Thai subtitles or in Thai) so we settled for The Ring Two, which, I am sorry to say, fell far short of its predecessor. But the experience was worth it!
One Sunday we went to the Chatuchak weekend market - by foot, ferry and sky train. The Sky Train is a great way to see the city: air conditioned, no traffic and cheaper than a taxi for long distances. Chatuchak is HUGE and it is impossible to see everything in a few hours or possibly even a few days. Tony wanted to add to his collection of "engrish" t-shirts (t-shirts with horribly mis-spelled sayings or those that make absolutely no sense at all) and I wanted to get sun-glasses, a calculator (to keep track of my bhat expenditure) and a tank top (did I mention Bangkok is HOT?).
Foon likes to say that you can buy anything at Chatuchak except a house or an airplane and he isn't far off. The little that we saw in three hours included various crafts, clothes, shoes, food, household items, tools, furniture, pets and much more that I can't recall. What stood out the most was the pets. The place was crawling with puppies and you couldn't get away from them. It was really sad because it was obvious that they had been taken away from their mothers too soon and they had to be so hot. I wanted to buy them all! They also had baby squirrels that looked like they had literally been stolen from their nests that morning, tied by their necks with string and not at all happy about it (I later learned from Foon that this is illegal).
We found a t-shirt stand and spent about 20 minutes in hysterics digging through the piles of shirts. I wish I could remember what they said. I'll have to make more notes next time. I got myself a 59 bhat shirt, a 37 bhat t-shirt, a 45 bhat calculator and a great pair of sunglasses for 150 bhat (about 38 bhat to the dollar).
After about three hours, we were beat and headed back to the house for dinner and a nap. We topped the weekend off at our neighborhood bar and felt very satisfied with ourselves!
Friday, March 18, 2005
Agro-Tourism
Friday (March 18th) we went on an Agro-tour. The tour, and the industries along the tour, were set up by the Thai government (or the King, I forget which) to help low-income Thai's who used to be rice farmers, but can no longer make a living growing rice. We visited a lotus farm, an orchid farm, a crispy rice "factory," and a fruit orchard. All of these were along a small river and we were transported from one to the next in long boats.
The lotus farm was really neat. The lotus flower is a symbol of the Buddhist religion. The grow in water, standing about 3 to 4 feet high, with only the top 6-12 inches out of the water. They are harvested by wadeing through the water and collecting them one at a time and adding them to a bundle, which is then hoisted into a wating canoe. We were taken out in a boat and allowed to pick some.
After the lotus farm we visited a small snack plant where women come to make extra income after work and on the weekends by making various Thai snacks, including dried fruit and rice cakes with various toppings (dried sweet pork or sesame seeds). We also went to the back where this really strange water vegetable grows. From the bank, it looks like white sausage links, but when you pick it, you remove the white part to get to the stalk, which is then eaten. The white part feels like wet cotton and keeps the vegetable afloat.
The next stop was an orchid farm, which was a large green house with purple orchids as far as you could see. After which, we visited a fruit farm. The most interesting fruit, of many, I have yet to see in Thailand is called Jack Fruit. It can grow larger than two bowling balls and has no real distinctive shape except that it is covered with triangular bumps. At the fruit farm we were able to try a lot of the fruits and Jack fruit has a really interesting texture, similar to dried apples, but not dry and the taste is really like nothing I've ever tasted. Not exactly pleasing. The Thai's enjoy dipping their fruit in a mixture of sugar and (very hot) chili seeds, or fish sauce, sugar and chili seeds. That is one Thai custom I will probably never understand. To the western palate it is horrendous.
At the fruit farm we were treated to a ride around the orchard and rice fields on a contraption that was part tractor, part trailer with a ladder-like contraption attaching the two. The tractor engine was at the front and the driver sat on a seat in front of the trailer (picture the type of trailer that pulls lawn equipment behind a truck) and steers using the "ladder." We started out smoothly enough, but as we picked up speed heading straight for the nearest Jack Fruit tree, I began to get a little nervous. Suddenly the driver reached his arms out as far as he could to the right, literally turning the front wheels with the ladder contraption, almost falling out as he did so and we turn abruptly the to left, barreling down the bank of the rice field. Once everyone had gotten over their hysterics at my display of sheer terror, we settled into a festive mood and learned to hold on tight and practice blind faith at future impending turns.
The lotus farm was really neat. The lotus flower is a symbol of the Buddhist religion. The grow in water, standing about 3 to 4 feet high, with only the top 6-12 inches out of the water. They are harvested by wadeing through the water and collecting them one at a time and adding them to a bundle, which is then hoisted into a wating canoe. We were taken out in a boat and allowed to pick some.
After the lotus farm we visited a small snack plant where women come to make extra income after work and on the weekends by making various Thai snacks, including dried fruit and rice cakes with various toppings (dried sweet pork or sesame seeds). We also went to the back where this really strange water vegetable grows. From the bank, it looks like white sausage links, but when you pick it, you remove the white part to get to the stalk, which is then eaten. The white part feels like wet cotton and keeps the vegetable afloat.
The next stop was an orchid farm, which was a large green house with purple orchids as far as you could see. After which, we visited a fruit farm. The most interesting fruit, of many, I have yet to see in Thailand is called Jack Fruit. It can grow larger than two bowling balls and has no real distinctive shape except that it is covered with triangular bumps. At the fruit farm we were able to try a lot of the fruits and Jack fruit has a really interesting texture, similar to dried apples, but not dry and the taste is really like nothing I've ever tasted. Not exactly pleasing. The Thai's enjoy dipping their fruit in a mixture of sugar and (very hot) chili seeds, or fish sauce, sugar and chili seeds. That is one Thai custom I will probably never understand. To the western palate it is horrendous.
At the fruit farm we were treated to a ride around the orchard and rice fields on a contraption that was part tractor, part trailer with a ladder-like contraption attaching the two. The tractor engine was at the front and the driver sat on a seat in front of the trailer (picture the type of trailer that pulls lawn equipment behind a truck) and steers using the "ladder." We started out smoothly enough, but as we picked up speed heading straight for the nearest Jack Fruit tree, I began to get a little nervous. Suddenly the driver reached his arms out as far as he could to the right, literally turning the front wheels with the ladder contraption, almost falling out as he did so and we turn abruptly the to left, barreling down the bank of the rice field. Once everyone had gotten over their hysterics at my display of sheer terror, we settled into a festive mood and learned to hold on tight and practice blind faith at future impending turns.
Phat Pong Road
If you read enough about Bangkok, it is inevitable that you will encounter information about the booming sex industry here. While I do not agree with it, condone it, or want to support it in any way - coming all this way, I couldn't resist seeing it for myself.
In Bangkok, Phat Pong Road is the center of the sex industry. While the center of the road is lined with the inevitable street market (the availability of night markets in Bangkok make it possible for you to literally shop 24 hours a day), the store fronts are lined with stores selling questionable merchandise and bars revealling stages full of dancing girls (all clad in bikin's). While this is nothing different than you see on Burbon Street in New Orleans, the difference here are the men trying to lure you in to the "real" shows complete with menus of everything you can expect to see. So to not offend, I won't go into detail, but can share individually, if you care to know what you're missing.
The worst part of it for me was yet another street, free of the market, with store fronts filled with Thai women in evening gowns, with numbers pinned to their dresses.
I'm glad I went to see it for myself, but I will not likely be going back any time soon.
In Bangkok, Phat Pong Road is the center of the sex industry. While the center of the road is lined with the inevitable street market (the availability of night markets in Bangkok make it possible for you to literally shop 24 hours a day), the store fronts are lined with stores selling questionable merchandise and bars revealling stages full of dancing girls (all clad in bikin's). While this is nothing different than you see on Burbon Street in New Orleans, the difference here are the men trying to lure you in to the "real" shows complete with menus of everything you can expect to see. So to not offend, I won't go into detail, but can share individually, if you care to know what you're missing.
The worst part of it for me was yet another street, free of the market, with store fronts filled with Thai women in evening gowns, with numbers pinned to their dresses.
I'm glad I went to see it for myself, but I will not likely be going back any time soon.
Turtles and Thai Food
During our orientation, we were told that Bangkok has three seasons: hot, hotter and damn hot. I have learned that you can say the same of the food.
My hosts here are wonderful. We are very well taken care of, housed, entertained and fed. We have breakfast at the house - fruit and museli (Todd if you are out there, I know you are jealous), either a packed lunch or lunch on the road; and dinner at home or in a local restaurant. Thailand is not for the faint of heart when it comes to food, as many menus are indecipherable, many dishes unidentifiable, and the Thai people seem to take a perverse pleasure in seeing just what you will eat if put in front of you. While the meals at home are tempered to western palates, the food in the restaurants is made for the Thais and often leaves you with a runny nose, watery eyes and a unquenchable fire in your mounth. If I thought I had a tolerance for spicy food before I left, I will be quite impressive after three months here! I have also crunched into things on my spoon, thinking they were fish bones, only to spit out an entire crab, complete with shell and legs!
It also turns out that Thai's do not eat turtles. Rather, the turtles in the market are sold to gain merit. Thai's (Buddhists) believe that there are certain things that you can do to gain merit if you are down on your luck - offering food and flowers to local monks and setting animals free. So the worse your day, the more turtles you should let free. I don't plan on having bad luck, but I am going to set a few turtles free, preferably far from where I purchase them, or it is likly that they will go right back in the bucket the next time they round up turtles from the river.
My hosts here are wonderful. We are very well taken care of, housed, entertained and fed. We have breakfast at the house - fruit and museli (Todd if you are out there, I know you are jealous), either a packed lunch or lunch on the road; and dinner at home or in a local restaurant. Thailand is not for the faint of heart when it comes to food, as many menus are indecipherable, many dishes unidentifiable, and the Thai people seem to take a perverse pleasure in seeing just what you will eat if put in front of you. While the meals at home are tempered to western palates, the food in the restaurants is made for the Thais and often leaves you with a runny nose, watery eyes and a unquenchable fire in your mounth. If I thought I had a tolerance for spicy food before I left, I will be quite impressive after three months here! I have also crunched into things on my spoon, thinking they were fish bones, only to spit out an entire crab, complete with shell and legs!
It also turns out that Thai's do not eat turtles. Rather, the turtles in the market are sold to gain merit. Thai's (Buddhists) believe that there are certain things that you can do to gain merit if you are down on your luck - offering food and flowers to local monks and setting animals free. So the worse your day, the more turtles you should let free. I don't plan on having bad luck, but I am going to set a few turtles free, preferably far from where I purchase them, or it is likly that they will go right back in the bucket the next time they round up turtles from the river.
Sharon's Big Adventure
Wednesday afternoon, I went with two other volunteers to the pool (a very nice, very long, very empty, public pool) and spent the afternoon reading and lazing in the sun. So Thursday, I decided I would do something a little more productive than work on my tan.
I left the house with a water bottle, a banana, directions to the nearest pier and a rough idea of where I wanted to go. After stopping in to check my mail at the very convenient, yet very arcade-like, internet cafe at the end of the road, I turned left and headed over the bridge. The bridge to the left of the entrance of our neighborhood is small and leads you over a canal (klong). As I was crossing, I spotted an iguana, about two feet from head to tail, lounging on the rail.
After the bridge, the sidewalk market begins. The side walk markets often have permenant shops in the buildings and tables selling almost anything you can imagine lining both sides of the sidewalk outside of the shops, their awnings meeting to form a covered walkway. The carts in this market sell everything from fruites and vegetables to shoes and calculators, to every imaginable peice of pig. It was interesting, but crowded and the smell of the meat was a little much for me. Next time, I may walk on the other side of the road.
I turned and walked down to the pier and paid my two bhat to get on the ferry to cross the river. Only when I was on the ferry, did I realize that there may be lots of ferrys with lots of destinations and not just simply "across the river". Deciding to try my luck, I stayed on, figuring that it had to stop eventually and when it did, I would get off and make my way back. Luckily for me, I had chosen correctly.
As the ferry made its way across the river, what appeared to be a river cruise boat passed with about 30 or 40 white farangs (foreigners) drinking mixed drinks. As we passed them by, I sat proudly in my two bhat ferry surrounded by Thai faces.
Once off the ferry, I walked into yet another street market - they are practically unavoidable, and was again greeted with a mix of shoes, clothes, nicknacks and freshly prepared foods. I made my way across the street - not an easy feat - and found that I was on the sidewalk in front of the Grand Palace. I had had no idea that we were so close. As I made my way up the side walk, a tuk-tuk driver pulled over and pulled out a picture of the grand palace, pointing at it and saying, what I believed to be "closed, closed" or I just may have heard this because I was expecting it. I said, "mai chai, ka," (No) and continued on my way. I had read numerous stories about the tuk-tuk drivers who haunt tourist areas waiting for the unlucky tourist who believes their story that the site they want to see is closed and allow the tuk-tuk driver to take them to another site where they are pressured into buying something (usually jewels) and the driver makes a commission. A few yards later, another tuk-tuk pulled up and the driver, with the same picture, motioned to me and aggressively stabbed at the picture and then at the sidewalk saying "Closed! Closed!" I realized that it was the same driver and that he had somehow made a u-turn and come all the way back in that short of time (the traffic along the sidewalk was moving away from me). I gave up Thai and simply said that I wasn't going to the Grand Palace; I had already seen it, ignored his admonitions and continued on my way. Little did the driver know, not only did I know enough to question his motives, but I am also extremely cheap and even if I hadn't guessed what he was up to, I wouldn't have paid him to take me anywhere anyway.
I made it to my destination, Kho San Road (which I had wanted to find to have an orienting point in the city) and headed back to the house. On the way back, I passed a park where they were holding a kite flying competition and the shy was filled with racing and twirling kites. I also passed a group of men playing what looked like an advanced form of hacky sack. Six or seven men stood in a circle and used their heads, feet and shoulders to try to get a ball about half the size of a soccer ball into a net approximately 10 feet above their heads. It was really neat to watch.
Back at the river, I got on the ferry across the river, noting the name of the pier (which I have promply forgotten) so that I could make sure I got on the correct ferry again the next time. This ferry took us directly across the river to a pier just South (north? east? west?) of the one that I had departed from. Not knowing if it would go on, or simply go back across, I got off (an adventure in itself to be sure you make it from the boat to the pier without steping through the crack between the tires that keep the boat from scraping against the pier). Once off the pier, I found that I had walked right into a fish market complete with buckets full of lots of exotic river life. There were buckets of fish, buckets of eels, buckets of sucker fish, and buckets of soft shell turtles. I wandered around, checking everything out, noting to myself to ask someone at the house exactly what fate awaited all of those little turtles.
I made it back safely in about 2 hours and 15 minutes, having enjoyed my walk, but making sure to note the numbers on the buses that passed our neighborhood to save my feet a bit the next time.
I left the house with a water bottle, a banana, directions to the nearest pier and a rough idea of where I wanted to go. After stopping in to check my mail at the very convenient, yet very arcade-like, internet cafe at the end of the road, I turned left and headed over the bridge. The bridge to the left of the entrance of our neighborhood is small and leads you over a canal (klong). As I was crossing, I spotted an iguana, about two feet from head to tail, lounging on the rail.
After the bridge, the sidewalk market begins. The side walk markets often have permenant shops in the buildings and tables selling almost anything you can imagine lining both sides of the sidewalk outside of the shops, their awnings meeting to form a covered walkway. The carts in this market sell everything from fruites and vegetables to shoes and calculators, to every imaginable peice of pig. It was interesting, but crowded and the smell of the meat was a little much for me. Next time, I may walk on the other side of the road.
I turned and walked down to the pier and paid my two bhat to get on the ferry to cross the river. Only when I was on the ferry, did I realize that there may be lots of ferrys with lots of destinations and not just simply "across the river". Deciding to try my luck, I stayed on, figuring that it had to stop eventually and when it did, I would get off and make my way back. Luckily for me, I had chosen correctly.
As the ferry made its way across the river, what appeared to be a river cruise boat passed with about 30 or 40 white farangs (foreigners) drinking mixed drinks. As we passed them by, I sat proudly in my two bhat ferry surrounded by Thai faces.
Once off the ferry, I walked into yet another street market - they are practically unavoidable, and was again greeted with a mix of shoes, clothes, nicknacks and freshly prepared foods. I made my way across the street - not an easy feat - and found that I was on the sidewalk in front of the Grand Palace. I had had no idea that we were so close. As I made my way up the side walk, a tuk-tuk driver pulled over and pulled out a picture of the grand palace, pointing at it and saying, what I believed to be "closed, closed" or I just may have heard this because I was expecting it. I said, "mai chai, ka," (No) and continued on my way. I had read numerous stories about the tuk-tuk drivers who haunt tourist areas waiting for the unlucky tourist who believes their story that the site they want to see is closed and allow the tuk-tuk driver to take them to another site where they are pressured into buying something (usually jewels) and the driver makes a commission. A few yards later, another tuk-tuk pulled up and the driver, with the same picture, motioned to me and aggressively stabbed at the picture and then at the sidewalk saying "Closed! Closed!" I realized that it was the same driver and that he had somehow made a u-turn and come all the way back in that short of time (the traffic along the sidewalk was moving away from me). I gave up Thai and simply said that I wasn't going to the Grand Palace; I had already seen it, ignored his admonitions and continued on my way. Little did the driver know, not only did I know enough to question his motives, but I am also extremely cheap and even if I hadn't guessed what he was up to, I wouldn't have paid him to take me anywhere anyway.
I made it to my destination, Kho San Road (which I had wanted to find to have an orienting point in the city) and headed back to the house. On the way back, I passed a park where they were holding a kite flying competition and the shy was filled with racing and twirling kites. I also passed a group of men playing what looked like an advanced form of hacky sack. Six or seven men stood in a circle and used their heads, feet and shoulders to try to get a ball about half the size of a soccer ball into a net approximately 10 feet above their heads. It was really neat to watch.
Back at the river, I got on the ferry across the river, noting the name of the pier (which I have promply forgotten) so that I could make sure I got on the correct ferry again the next time. This ferry took us directly across the river to a pier just South (north? east? west?) of the one that I had departed from. Not knowing if it would go on, or simply go back across, I got off (an adventure in itself to be sure you make it from the boat to the pier without steping through the crack between the tires that keep the boat from scraping against the pier). Once off the pier, I found that I had walked right into a fish market complete with buckets full of lots of exotic river life. There were buckets of fish, buckets of eels, buckets of sucker fish, and buckets of soft shell turtles. I wandered around, checking everything out, noting to myself to ask someone at the house exactly what fate awaited all of those little turtles.
I made it back safely in about 2 hours and 15 minutes, having enjoyed my walk, but making sure to note the numbers on the buses that passed our neighborhood to save my feet a bit the next time.
Now I know my A, B, C's
Tuesday night we discovered, "Sit @ Side" the neighborhood bar, serving 80 bhat Singha's, where your glass is never empty. Three of the other volunteers and I spent a few hours chatting and having our glasses continously topped off by the ever-attentive bar staff. I am enjoying our group.
Wednesday and Thursday, I volunteered at the local day care with three other volunteers who will be there for their entire stint here. The first day, I was placed with a class of about 20 four-year-olds and handed a little chair and a flip chart of the English alphabet. After a few letters, I realized that these kids must do this every day (and it turns out that they do) because they recited everything back to me perfectly.
Three of the classes are held in one big room, with others held in adjoining rooms off of the main room. The teachers sing songs, it seems, to get the kids back on track when they stray, and the kids are encouraged to yell the songs back as loud as they can (or maybe they just like to yell). Needless to say, it is very loud in there. It seemed that the teachers have to work very hard to be creative to keep the kids focused on them.
The second day, they held an assembly in the main entrance and we were the guests of honor. After introducing ourselves to a room of 200+ kids, "Dichan chu Sharon, ka," we were asked to sing along with some English nursery rhymes, all which involved some sort of motion (Itsy, Bitsy Spider; Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes; Thumbkin, etc.). After that, apparently, we were asked to lead aerobics, something I only picked up on after I noticed one of the volunteers doing the motions first and the kids and teachers repeating her movements. Soon we were all trying to think of new moves so that we didn't have a roomful of children marching in place for two full minutes between every new move. It was a lot of fun.
After the assembly, we went upstairs and again I was handed the A, B, C book. Since we had just done it outside and I didn't see the good in repeating it (only that they probably figured it was all we could do) I thought I would try to be creative. I came up with the idea of having the kids all gather in groups based on the color of their shirts and teaching them the colors in English by having them all stand up, and yell (of course) their color when I held up that color crayon. We did manage to get them in groups and have them stand up when the teacher said the color of their shirt (in Thai) and I said the color in English, but that was as far as we got. If I had had flash cards and a week or so, I might have accomplished something, but I was proud of my efforts nonetheless. After my little color activity, I was again handed the A, B, Cs.
Wednesday and Thursday, I volunteered at the local day care with three other volunteers who will be there for their entire stint here. The first day, I was placed with a class of about 20 four-year-olds and handed a little chair and a flip chart of the English alphabet. After a few letters, I realized that these kids must do this every day (and it turns out that they do) because they recited everything back to me perfectly.
Three of the classes are held in one big room, with others held in adjoining rooms off of the main room. The teachers sing songs, it seems, to get the kids back on track when they stray, and the kids are encouraged to yell the songs back as loud as they can (or maybe they just like to yell). Needless to say, it is very loud in there. It seemed that the teachers have to work very hard to be creative to keep the kids focused on them.
The second day, they held an assembly in the main entrance and we were the guests of honor. After introducing ourselves to a room of 200+ kids, "Dichan chu Sharon, ka," we were asked to sing along with some English nursery rhymes, all which involved some sort of motion (Itsy, Bitsy Spider; Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes; Thumbkin, etc.). After that, apparently, we were asked to lead aerobics, something I only picked up on after I noticed one of the volunteers doing the motions first and the kids and teachers repeating her movements. Soon we were all trying to think of new moves so that we didn't have a roomful of children marching in place for two full minutes between every new move. It was a lot of fun.
After the assembly, we went upstairs and again I was handed the A, B, C book. Since we had just done it outside and I didn't see the good in repeating it (only that they probably figured it was all we could do) I thought I would try to be creative. I came up with the idea of having the kids all gather in groups based on the color of their shirts and teaching them the colors in English by having them all stand up, and yell (of course) their color when I held up that color crayon. We did manage to get them in groups and have them stand up when the teacher said the color of their shirt (in Thai) and I said the color in English, but that was as far as we got. If I had had flash cards and a week or so, I might have accomplished something, but I was proud of my efforts nonetheless. After my little color activity, I was again handed the A, B, Cs.
Tuesday, March 15, 2005
Hot Tea and a Change of Plans
In Thai, "cha" means tea and "ron" means "hot." I have been affectionately dubbed "hot tea."
Today we were all to visit our placements, but at the last minute as we were about to leave, Pimsuda (the director) called those of us placed at Baan Kanchanapisek into the office and told us that she had just received a call from the director saying that she didn't think it would be a good idea to have non-Thai-speaking volunteers there because she would be traveling a lot and she is the only one who speaks English. We were all a bit disappointed, but there was nothing anyone could do, so we were all up for whatever other placement was available. For the day, though, we all went to the Foundation for Children, where a volunteer is already placed.
The Foundation for Children is a home for children from birth to age 5 who are abandoned, abused or come from homes where their parents are unable to care for them. There were 13 babies about about 20 or so children aged 2-5. The kids were very cute and well taken care of. We sang songs and did exercise with them, played on the playground and in the classroom and helped get them dressed and down for a nap. When I went up to see the babies, I was handed a baby and a bowl of food by a woman feeding three babies at once. The babies all seemed well, but they must be a handful for the two women on staff (there were also two volunteers who are there for a few months).
After the Foundation we left for lunch and went to visit Baan Kanchanapisek, which was no longer a placement opportunity, but a visit. We were all extremely impressed. The grounds are enormous with brand new buildings, looking more like an upscale neighborhood than an institutions. The philosophy of the organization was just, if not more, impressive. The boys are seen not as criminals, but kids who have made a mistake. They must apply to get in and once in, they stay of their own free will. Each day they are required to write a daily journal and the journals are not corrected for spelling or grammar (so as to not discourage them from writing), but rather common mistakes are posted on a communal board so that they can correct themselves. Also any memorable or poetic quotes, with the boys' permission, are copied and put on bookmark to be sold, to show the boys that they do have something valuable to say. The boys also go out into the community schools and talk to other students about their past. They have also been invited to various organizations studying juvenile crime to talk about the reason for their behavior. It was such a progressive organization it was extremely impressive. The only question is to the effectiveness of the program because it has only been in existence for two years and follow up studies are needed.
After Baan Kanchanapisek, we headed back to the house. All day, as I had been taking in what was going on, I had a bit of a grumble going on in the back of my head. All of the other placements seemed to be day care centers and "I had not come to Thailand to work in a day care center." I soon caught myself and reasoned that even if I had to spend the next 12 weeks working in a day care center, I would take it one day at a time and that undoubtedly I would find at least one thing in each day to make me glad I was here. Fortunately for me, in the van on the way back to the house, Pimsuda received a call from an organization that does HIV/AIDS and public health outreach that would take on a volunteer. The organization also does some environmental education and clears "elephant trails" through a contract with a U.S. environmental organization. Needless to say, I was thrilled! I will start on Monday, finishing out this week at a new day care that I will go to tomorrow.
Today we were all to visit our placements, but at the last minute as we were about to leave, Pimsuda (the director) called those of us placed at Baan Kanchanapisek into the office and told us that she had just received a call from the director saying that she didn't think it would be a good idea to have non-Thai-speaking volunteers there because she would be traveling a lot and she is the only one who speaks English. We were all a bit disappointed, but there was nothing anyone could do, so we were all up for whatever other placement was available. For the day, though, we all went to the Foundation for Children, where a volunteer is already placed.
The Foundation for Children is a home for children from birth to age 5 who are abandoned, abused or come from homes where their parents are unable to care for them. There were 13 babies about about 20 or so children aged 2-5. The kids were very cute and well taken care of. We sang songs and did exercise with them, played on the playground and in the classroom and helped get them dressed and down for a nap. When I went up to see the babies, I was handed a baby and a bowl of food by a woman feeding three babies at once. The babies all seemed well, but they must be a handful for the two women on staff (there were also two volunteers who are there for a few months).
After the Foundation we left for lunch and went to visit Baan Kanchanapisek, which was no longer a placement opportunity, but a visit. We were all extremely impressed. The grounds are enormous with brand new buildings, looking more like an upscale neighborhood than an institutions. The philosophy of the organization was just, if not more, impressive. The boys are seen not as criminals, but kids who have made a mistake. They must apply to get in and once in, they stay of their own free will. Each day they are required to write a daily journal and the journals are not corrected for spelling or grammar (so as to not discourage them from writing), but rather common mistakes are posted on a communal board so that they can correct themselves. Also any memorable or poetic quotes, with the boys' permission, are copied and put on bookmark to be sold, to show the boys that they do have something valuable to say. The boys also go out into the community schools and talk to other students about their past. They have also been invited to various organizations studying juvenile crime to talk about the reason for their behavior. It was such a progressive organization it was extremely impressive. The only question is to the effectiveness of the program because it has only been in existence for two years and follow up studies are needed.
After Baan Kanchanapisek, we headed back to the house. All day, as I had been taking in what was going on, I had a bit of a grumble going on in the back of my head. All of the other placements seemed to be day care centers and "I had not come to Thailand to work in a day care center." I soon caught myself and reasoned that even if I had to spend the next 12 weeks working in a day care center, I would take it one day at a time and that undoubtedly I would find at least one thing in each day to make me glad I was here. Fortunately for me, in the van on the way back to the house, Pimsuda received a call from an organization that does HIV/AIDS and public health outreach that would take on a volunteer. The organization also does some environmental education and clears "elephant trails" through a contract with a U.S. environmental organization. Needless to say, I was thrilled! I will start on Monday, finishing out this week at a new day care that I will go to tomorrow.
Enlightenment
Monday was day two of our orientation. In the morning we visited the Grand Palace and Wat Po. These trips were so interesting and detailed that I cannot even hope to capture it all here, but I will do what I can (with the help of some links of course!).
Bangkok is the third capital of Siam. Ayuthaya was the first; Thonburi the second. The Grand Palace and grounds are immense. I believe that each King of Siam (& Thailand) added a building there and there is so much to see. Everything is so detailed: there are huge guard statues made of pieces of ceramic pottery, temples covered with gold leaf and mirrors and jewels, the longest wall painting in the world (absolutely fascinating - I could stay there a week just trying to figure it all out - this is just a small portion), a miniature replica of Angkor Wat and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The palace itself was designed after one of the kings (Rama 1-9) had visited Europe and wanted to base it on a European design, but gave it a uniquely Thai look by adding a Thai roof. It is referred to as the European with a Thai crown. There are also guards outside like those outside Buckingham Palace. Our guide, Jack, told us that they haven't been there that long, but were put there just because England has them.
Wat Phra Kaew is the home of the Emerald Buddha. Not coming from a Buddhist background, my favorite part of Wat Phra Kaew is the fact that they change his clothes each season! Inside the temple was amazing and very ornate. You have to remove your shoes before entering and no cameras are allowed.
There was another temple, which at first I did not think was so exciting, until we were told that the intricate design covering all of the walls wasn't wallpaper, but a hand painting! It was amazing! (I wish I could find a picture.)
The grounds are dotted with stone statues, like Asian gargoyles, that I found quite endearing. When I asked Jack about them, he said that when the Thai were trading with the Japanese, often they would have heavy loads on the way there and much lighter loads on the return trip. To balance out the ships, hundreds of these stone statues were purchased and when they made it home were dispersed around many temple grounds.
After the Grand Palace, we visited Wat Po, home of the reclining Buddha. This Buddha image is huge and it is only the third largest in Thailand. The foot prints of the Buddha are extremely intricately designed and inlaid with mother of pearl and this design is laid out specifically in Buddhist teachings. I can see why most Buddha images are made standing and sitting, feet down! On the way out there are 108 pots where you can donate coins (you purchase the 108 or so coins for a donation) and walk down the line dropping a coin or two in each pot. The sound of 50 people dropping coins in metal pots is really one to hear.
Some things I learned today (for those of you who were already aware of these things, forgive my ignorance.)
1) The "Buddha" image that we have all over the US of the chubby, happy guy, is not a Buddha at all, but a Chinese monk. A Buddha image is much thinner with the flame of enlightenment coming out of his head.
2) Shaking hands in greeting came from the tradition of showing your sword hand to prove that you were unarmed or meant no harm.
Bangkok is the third capital of Siam. Ayuthaya was the first; Thonburi the second. The Grand Palace and grounds are immense. I believe that each King of Siam (& Thailand) added a building there and there is so much to see. Everything is so detailed: there are huge guard statues made of pieces of ceramic pottery, temples covered with gold leaf and mirrors and jewels, the longest wall painting in the world (absolutely fascinating - I could stay there a week just trying to figure it all out - this is just a small portion), a miniature replica of Angkor Wat and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The palace itself was designed after one of the kings (Rama 1-9) had visited Europe and wanted to base it on a European design, but gave it a uniquely Thai look by adding a Thai roof. It is referred to as the European with a Thai crown. There are also guards outside like those outside Buckingham Palace. Our guide, Jack, told us that they haven't been there that long, but were put there just because England has them.
Wat Phra Kaew is the home of the Emerald Buddha. Not coming from a Buddhist background, my favorite part of Wat Phra Kaew is the fact that they change his clothes each season! Inside the temple was amazing and very ornate. You have to remove your shoes before entering and no cameras are allowed.
There was another temple, which at first I did not think was so exciting, until we were told that the intricate design covering all of the walls wasn't wallpaper, but a hand painting! It was amazing! (I wish I could find a picture.)
The grounds are dotted with stone statues, like Asian gargoyles, that I found quite endearing. When I asked Jack about them, he said that when the Thai were trading with the Japanese, often they would have heavy loads on the way there and much lighter loads on the return trip. To balance out the ships, hundreds of these stone statues were purchased and when they made it home were dispersed around many temple grounds.
After the Grand Palace, we visited Wat Po, home of the reclining Buddha. This Buddha image is huge and it is only the third largest in Thailand. The foot prints of the Buddha are extremely intricately designed and inlaid with mother of pearl and this design is laid out specifically in Buddhist teachings. I can see why most Buddha images are made standing and sitting, feet down! On the way out there are 108 pots where you can donate coins (you purchase the 108 or so coins for a donation) and walk down the line dropping a coin or two in each pot. The sound of 50 people dropping coins in metal pots is really one to hear.
Some things I learned today (for those of you who were already aware of these things, forgive my ignorance.)
1) The "Buddha" image that we have all over the US of the chubby, happy guy, is not a Buddha at all, but a Chinese monk. A Buddha image is much thinner with the flame of enlightenment coming out of his head.
2) Shaking hands in greeting came from the tradition of showing your sword hand to prove that you were unarmed or meant no harm.
Sunday, March 13, 2005
Khun sa-bai-dee mai
(How are you?)
I have only been in Thailand for... what day is it again... Sunday... Two full days? and am already back into travel mode. I remembered today why I love to travel so much - you wake up every day never knowing what will happen, what you will see, what you will do. The world is filled with possibilities. And of course all of the great people you meet. I have plans for April to spend 10 days at the beach with two of my new friends. Who would have thought just yesterday!
There are six in my volunteer group, three of us from the states and three girls from the UK. Everyone except one is in their 20's (I think I may be the second oldest) and we all get on very well. Last night we all went for sushi on Kho San Road (the "backpacker haven" of Bangkok) and it was unlike anywhere I have ever seen. The street is a mix of bars and shops and street vendors and the crowd is a mix of young thais and 20 something backpackers from all over as well as older "hippie types." You can buy almost anything there and the music blaring from the bars is distinctly American. It was definitely not an authentic Thai experience, but there are a great mix of bars and it is great for people watching.
Today was the first day of orientation. The morning was spent talking a bit about Thai culture and customs. We were then split up into pairs and given a "mission." Our mission was to go to a restaurant (specified on our mission card) and buy 40 sticks of "moo satae" (moo = chicken!) and then to 7-11 (they are everywhere) for drinks. The others had to purchase fruit and vegetables at the market and buy sticky rice and mangos for dessert as well as getting their fortune from the Buddha in a local temple. I thought ours was the easiest, but we managed to have somewhat of an adventure.
When we turned on the road to the restaurant, we encountered a monk leading a little boy. Apparently there was something greatly disturbing about us (two western women?) and the monk grabbed the boy and rushed away from us with an ovbious look of distaste. When monks are touched by a women they have to go through some sort of cleansing ritual. Maybe it isn't a very pleasant experience. Or maybe it was just him. I've passed other monks on the road without similar reactions.
On our way to the 7-ll, we passed two women at a food cart and greeted them in Thai. One woman asked if we spoke Thai (in English) and I answered that I could say two words: "Hello" and "Thank you." The other women immediately picked out a bracelet for me from her display and insisted that I take it as a gift. I wasn't sure if I should take it, but did out of respect and thanked her (in Thai). Back at CCS, I asked if that was the appropriate thing to do and was told that it was and that many Thai people love it when foreigners (farangs) attempt to speak Thai and are just generally very friendly people. I had read that sentiment a million times when reading about Thailand, but it was really nice to see just how true it is.
After lunch, we had Thai lessons and learned how to say "What is your name? " "My name is...," "Where are you from?" "I am from...," "How are you?" "I am fine," "Where are you going?" "I am going to the bathroom (hospital, 7-11) and to count to 100. It was a lot of fun and the instructor incorporated practical exercises into each lesson. I am looking forward to shopping now that I can ask "how much?" and understand the reply.
After the language lessons, we went on a tour to learn how to navigate the public transportation - metered taxi to river taxi to sky train. The sky train is similar to MARTA or the NYC subway when it goes above ground. It was neat to finally see more of metropolitan Bangkok. It is HUGE! I doubt I will be able to see a quarter of all I want to see in three months.
Tomorrow we will go sightseeing and have some more language lessons and then Tuesday it is off to our placements. I am looking forward to having some down time to write letters and to plan everything I want to do - there is so much!
I have only been in Thailand for... what day is it again... Sunday... Two full days? and am already back into travel mode. I remembered today why I love to travel so much - you wake up every day never knowing what will happen, what you will see, what you will do. The world is filled with possibilities. And of course all of the great people you meet. I have plans for April to spend 10 days at the beach with two of my new friends. Who would have thought just yesterday!
There are six in my volunteer group, three of us from the states and three girls from the UK. Everyone except one is in their 20's (I think I may be the second oldest) and we all get on very well. Last night we all went for sushi on Kho San Road (the "backpacker haven" of Bangkok) and it was unlike anywhere I have ever seen. The street is a mix of bars and shops and street vendors and the crowd is a mix of young thais and 20 something backpackers from all over as well as older "hippie types." You can buy almost anything there and the music blaring from the bars is distinctly American. It was definitely not an authentic Thai experience, but there are a great mix of bars and it is great for people watching.
Today was the first day of orientation. The morning was spent talking a bit about Thai culture and customs. We were then split up into pairs and given a "mission." Our mission was to go to a restaurant (specified on our mission card) and buy 40 sticks of "moo satae" (moo = chicken!) and then to 7-11 (they are everywhere) for drinks. The others had to purchase fruit and vegetables at the market and buy sticky rice and mangos for dessert as well as getting their fortune from the Buddha in a local temple. I thought ours was the easiest, but we managed to have somewhat of an adventure.
When we turned on the road to the restaurant, we encountered a monk leading a little boy. Apparently there was something greatly disturbing about us (two western women?) and the monk grabbed the boy and rushed away from us with an ovbious look of distaste. When monks are touched by a women they have to go through some sort of cleansing ritual. Maybe it isn't a very pleasant experience. Or maybe it was just him. I've passed other monks on the road without similar reactions.
On our way to the 7-ll, we passed two women at a food cart and greeted them in Thai. One woman asked if we spoke Thai (in English) and I answered that I could say two words: "Hello" and "Thank you." The other women immediately picked out a bracelet for me from her display and insisted that I take it as a gift. I wasn't sure if I should take it, but did out of respect and thanked her (in Thai). Back at CCS, I asked if that was the appropriate thing to do and was told that it was and that many Thai people love it when foreigners (farangs) attempt to speak Thai and are just generally very friendly people. I had read that sentiment a million times when reading about Thailand, but it was really nice to see just how true it is.
After lunch, we had Thai lessons and learned how to say "What is your name? " "My name is...," "Where are you from?" "I am from...," "How are you?" "I am fine," "Where are you going?" "I am going to the bathroom (hospital, 7-11) and to count to 100. It was a lot of fun and the instructor incorporated practical exercises into each lesson. I am looking forward to shopping now that I can ask "how much?" and understand the reply.
After the language lessons, we went on a tour to learn how to navigate the public transportation - metered taxi to river taxi to sky train. The sky train is similar to MARTA or the NYC subway when it goes above ground. It was neat to finally see more of metropolitan Bangkok. It is HUGE! I doubt I will be able to see a quarter of all I want to see in three months.
Tomorrow we will go sightseeing and have some more language lessons and then Tuesday it is off to our placements. I am looking forward to having some down time to write letters and to plan everything I want to do - there is so much!
Saturday, March 12, 2005
Sawadee Ka
Hello, from Thailand.
I arrived in Bangkok around 4:30 p.m. on Friday and was picked up from the airport by June and Dumm. June is the administrative assistant for CCS and Dumm is the driver. The van was parked in at the airport and we had to push the cars (parked parallel to the van) out of the way to make room to get out. My first non-US experience.
My first impression of Bangkok from the ride from the airport is that it looked a lot like Mexico City. It probably looks nothing like Mexico City, but I saw both the first time just off of the plane and my brain picked up some similarity. The CCS grounds are in a quiet middle class neighborhood (lots of gated homes). They consist of three buildings and a little pond in the middle. I haven't had much time to explore more than the kitchen, bedroom and bathroom, but it is quite homey.My official orientation does not begin until tomorrow, so things have been pretty casual.
Today we (myself, Foon (CCS program assistant) and three other volunteers) went on a half day trip to a pottery market. To get to the market, we took a water taxi and then hired a covered long boat to take us the rest of the way. A man on the deck where we hired the boat was fishing for shrimp and when he noticed me watching him, he motioned me over to show me the shrimp that he had already caught and said "tom yum!" I laughed thinking he meant "tom yum soup" and maybe he did, but tom yum could also mean "shrimp." I need to look that one up.
The banks of the Chao Praya River where we were are lined with modern buildings, highrises and a few scattered homes. The further we went, the more residential it became and the banks were lined with houses. It must be so neat to be able to fish off of your back porch! And I can't forget the wats (Thai Buddhist Temples)!
They are everywhere. We made one stop at a dessert shop where I experienced my first Thai squat toilet. It probable isn't proper to go into details on this one, but lets just say it could possibly be an experience in itself.
The market was basically a tourist market, but we were able to watch a man make a pot complete with lid and stand. His set up was very basic, simply a motor attached to a belt, attached to another wheel which made the pottery wheel turn. For lunch, Poon ordered for us and we had rice in ice water (dubbed "ice rice") and a bowl of fried pork skin strips, fried fish balls and some carmelized Chinese vegetable for an appetizer. The main course was vegetables in oyster sauce, a plate of egg (somewhat like an omelet with nothing in it) and tom yum soup. The meal was good; the appetizer made for a pretty picture.
I'm not sure how much this internet cafe costs yet (I need to look up how to say that) so I'm not sure how much I can post. It is going to be hard not to write, because I'm sure almost everything is going to be an experience, but it will be a good exercise in editing (and budgeting).
I am looking forward to my time here; much more so when I was all by myself on the plane. It will be fun to learn the language and find my way around. There is a volunteer here who has been here since January and she gets around extremely well. I'm looking forward to getting to that place and all it takes to get there.
I arrived in Bangkok around 4:30 p.m. on Friday and was picked up from the airport by June and Dumm. June is the administrative assistant for CCS and Dumm is the driver. The van was parked in at the airport and we had to push the cars (parked parallel to the van) out of the way to make room to get out. My first non-US experience.
My first impression of Bangkok from the ride from the airport is that it looked a lot like Mexico City. It probably looks nothing like Mexico City, but I saw both the first time just off of the plane and my brain picked up some similarity. The CCS grounds are in a quiet middle class neighborhood (lots of gated homes). They consist of three buildings and a little pond in the middle. I haven't had much time to explore more than the kitchen, bedroom and bathroom, but it is quite homey.My official orientation does not begin until tomorrow, so things have been pretty casual.
Today we (myself, Foon (CCS program assistant) and three other volunteers) went on a half day trip to a pottery market. To get to the market, we took a water taxi and then hired a covered long boat to take us the rest of the way. A man on the deck where we hired the boat was fishing for shrimp and when he noticed me watching him, he motioned me over to show me the shrimp that he had already caught and said "tom yum!" I laughed thinking he meant "tom yum soup" and maybe he did, but tom yum could also mean "shrimp." I need to look that one up.
The banks of the Chao Praya River where we were are lined with modern buildings, highrises and a few scattered homes. The further we went, the more residential it became and the banks were lined with houses. It must be so neat to be able to fish off of your back porch! And I can't forget the wats (Thai Buddhist Temples)!
They are everywhere. We made one stop at a dessert shop where I experienced my first Thai squat toilet. It probable isn't proper to go into details on this one, but lets just say it could possibly be an experience in itself.
The market was basically a tourist market, but we were able to watch a man make a pot complete with lid and stand. His set up was very basic, simply a motor attached to a belt, attached to another wheel which made the pottery wheel turn. For lunch, Poon ordered for us and we had rice in ice water (dubbed "ice rice") and a bowl of fried pork skin strips, fried fish balls and some carmelized Chinese vegetable for an appetizer. The main course was vegetables in oyster sauce, a plate of egg (somewhat like an omelet with nothing in it) and tom yum soup. The meal was good; the appetizer made for a pretty picture.
I'm not sure how much this internet cafe costs yet (I need to look up how to say that) so I'm not sure how much I can post. It is going to be hard not to write, because I'm sure almost everything is going to be an experience, but it will be a good exercise in editing (and budgeting).
I am looking forward to my time here; much more so when I was all by myself on the plane. It will be fun to learn the language and find my way around. There is a volunteer here who has been here since January and she gets around extremely well. I'm looking forward to getting to that place and all it takes to get there.
Friday, March 11, 2005
Twenty nine hours, two stops, and no showers later...
...I'm still not there yet! I cannot believe that so much has gone on at home and I have either been in a plane, waiting to get off a plane, or waiting to get on another plane and I'm still not quite in Bangkok. Two more hours to wait and one hour to fly from Kuala Lumpor, Malaysia. I could have paid 18 dollars for an all inclusive business lounge complete with "food and drink," "free-flowing beer," "hot shower," "internet access," "chair massage," etc., but I decided to get 75 minutes of internet for $5 at Burger King (yes, Burger King) instead.
My flights, though long and not too easy on certain body parts, were pleasant enough and safely uneventful. I was able to sleep and read up on my Bangkok guides and catch a showing of the Incredibles. The food was great: chicken curry for dinner, a Chinese breakfast (shrimp dumpling and lotus rice - sticky rice with some sort of seafood served in a leaf of some sort (very cultured description, I know)), and a vegetarian Indian dish for brunch. Needless to say, the food has been the highlight.
I saw my first monk in the airport in Taipei (a stop over), realized that books in some Asian countries open on the left and received my first "foreign" currency in Malaysia, the value of which I have not an inkling. I would desperately like to take my first "foreign" shower. I am looking forward to arriving in Bangkok. The ride from the airport is supposed to take an hour and a half in traffic, so I should have plenty of time to take in the city sights on the way.
I just wanted to check in to let everyone know that I am almost safely there. I hope this finds you all well. My whole life when I've talked about traveling, I've heard the response that all traveling will do is make you appreciate the United States more. I have yet to experience that, but I do know that everyone I love is there and right now it seems so very, very far away!
My flights, though long and not too easy on certain body parts, were pleasant enough and safely uneventful. I was able to sleep and read up on my Bangkok guides and catch a showing of the Incredibles. The food was great: chicken curry for dinner, a Chinese breakfast (shrimp dumpling and lotus rice - sticky rice with some sort of seafood served in a leaf of some sort (very cultured description, I know)), and a vegetarian Indian dish for brunch. Needless to say, the food has been the highlight.
I saw my first monk in the airport in Taipei (a stop over), realized that books in some Asian countries open on the left and received my first "foreign" currency in Malaysia, the value of which I have not an inkling. I would desperately like to take my first "foreign" shower. I am looking forward to arriving in Bangkok. The ride from the airport is supposed to take an hour and a half in traffic, so I should have plenty of time to take in the city sights on the way.
I just wanted to check in to let everyone know that I am almost safely there. I hope this finds you all well. My whole life when I've talked about traveling, I've heard the response that all traveling will do is make you appreciate the United States more. I have yet to experience that, but I do know that everyone I love is there and right now it seems so very, very far away!
Wednesday, March 09, 2005
Laaeo Phohp Gan Mai
I've spent the past few days visiting friends and family before I leave and instead of saying goodbye, I've decided to say see you later (Laaeo Phohp Gan Mai), because I will be back and this is just one short six month adventure, of many, in life. I don't like goodbyes.
I leave tomorrow at seven........ something (I should look that up) and will spend the following 19 (or 22 or 24 depending on who you ask) hours in the air and will arrive in Bangkok at four.... something (I never was good with details). Luckily I have a ride from the airport and am encouraged to sleep immediately upon arrival. I am already looking forward to the nap!
If I wasn't able to write or call to say "see you later," I apologize. I have been running around trying to make sure I've done everything I need to do before I leave. I will be sure to write when I arrive, or sometime that first week. I will miss you all and it will be so good to hear from you.
Here I go (deep breath)...
I leave tomorrow at seven........ something (I should look that up) and will spend the following 19 (or 22 or 24 depending on who you ask) hours in the air and will arrive in Bangkok at four.... something (I never was good with details). Luckily I have a ride from the airport and am encouraged to sleep immediately upon arrival. I am already looking forward to the nap!
If I wasn't able to write or call to say "see you later," I apologize. I have been running around trying to make sure I've done everything I need to do before I leave. I will be sure to write when I arrive, or sometime that first week. I will miss you all and it will be so good to hear from you.
Here I go (deep breath)...
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