If you read enough about Bangkok, it is inevitable that you will encounter information about the booming sex industry here. While I do not agree with it, condone it, or want to support it in any way - coming all this way, I couldn't resist seeing it for myself.
In Bangkok, Phat Pong Road is the center of the sex industry. While the center of the road is lined with the inevitable street market (the availability of night markets in Bangkok make it possible for you to literally shop 24 hours a day), the store fronts are lined with stores selling questionable merchandise and bars revealling stages full of dancing girls (all clad in bikin's). While this is nothing different than you see on Burbon Street in New Orleans, the difference here are the men trying to lure you in to the "real" shows complete with menus of everything you can expect to see. So to not offend, I won't go into detail, but can share individually, if you care to know what you're missing.
The worst part of it for me was yet another street, free of the market, with store fronts filled with Thai women in evening gowns, with numbers pinned to their dresses.
I'm glad I went to see it for myself, but I will not likely be going back any time soon.
Friday, March 18, 2005
Turtles and Thai Food
During our orientation, we were told that Bangkok has three seasons: hot, hotter and damn hot. I have learned that you can say the same of the food.
My hosts here are wonderful. We are very well taken care of, housed, entertained and fed. We have breakfast at the house - fruit and museli (Todd if you are out there, I know you are jealous), either a packed lunch or lunch on the road; and dinner at home or in a local restaurant. Thailand is not for the faint of heart when it comes to food, as many menus are indecipherable, many dishes unidentifiable, and the Thai people seem to take a perverse pleasure in seeing just what you will eat if put in front of you. While the meals at home are tempered to western palates, the food in the restaurants is made for the Thais and often leaves you with a runny nose, watery eyes and a unquenchable fire in your mounth. If I thought I had a tolerance for spicy food before I left, I will be quite impressive after three months here! I have also crunched into things on my spoon, thinking they were fish bones, only to spit out an entire crab, complete with shell and legs!
It also turns out that Thai's do not eat turtles. Rather, the turtles in the market are sold to gain merit. Thai's (Buddhists) believe that there are certain things that you can do to gain merit if you are down on your luck - offering food and flowers to local monks and setting animals free. So the worse your day, the more turtles you should let free. I don't plan on having bad luck, but I am going to set a few turtles free, preferably far from where I purchase them, or it is likly that they will go right back in the bucket the next time they round up turtles from the river.
My hosts here are wonderful. We are very well taken care of, housed, entertained and fed. We have breakfast at the house - fruit and museli (Todd if you are out there, I know you are jealous), either a packed lunch or lunch on the road; and dinner at home or in a local restaurant. Thailand is not for the faint of heart when it comes to food, as many menus are indecipherable, many dishes unidentifiable, and the Thai people seem to take a perverse pleasure in seeing just what you will eat if put in front of you. While the meals at home are tempered to western palates, the food in the restaurants is made for the Thais and often leaves you with a runny nose, watery eyes and a unquenchable fire in your mounth. If I thought I had a tolerance for spicy food before I left, I will be quite impressive after three months here! I have also crunched into things on my spoon, thinking they were fish bones, only to spit out an entire crab, complete with shell and legs!
It also turns out that Thai's do not eat turtles. Rather, the turtles in the market are sold to gain merit. Thai's (Buddhists) believe that there are certain things that you can do to gain merit if you are down on your luck - offering food and flowers to local monks and setting animals free. So the worse your day, the more turtles you should let free. I don't plan on having bad luck, but I am going to set a few turtles free, preferably far from where I purchase them, or it is likly that they will go right back in the bucket the next time they round up turtles from the river.
Sharon's Big Adventure
Wednesday afternoon, I went with two other volunteers to the pool (a very nice, very long, very empty, public pool) and spent the afternoon reading and lazing in the sun. So Thursday, I decided I would do something a little more productive than work on my tan.
I left the house with a water bottle, a banana, directions to the nearest pier and a rough idea of where I wanted to go. After stopping in to check my mail at the very convenient, yet very arcade-like, internet cafe at the end of the road, I turned left and headed over the bridge. The bridge to the left of the entrance of our neighborhood is small and leads you over a canal (klong). As I was crossing, I spotted an iguana, about two feet from head to tail, lounging on the rail.
After the bridge, the sidewalk market begins. The side walk markets often have permenant shops in the buildings and tables selling almost anything you can imagine lining both sides of the sidewalk outside of the shops, their awnings meeting to form a covered walkway. The carts in this market sell everything from fruites and vegetables to shoes and calculators, to every imaginable peice of pig. It was interesting, but crowded and the smell of the meat was a little much for me. Next time, I may walk on the other side of the road.
I turned and walked down to the pier and paid my two bhat to get on the ferry to cross the river. Only when I was on the ferry, did I realize that there may be lots of ferrys with lots of destinations and not just simply "across the river". Deciding to try my luck, I stayed on, figuring that it had to stop eventually and when it did, I would get off and make my way back. Luckily for me, I had chosen correctly.
As the ferry made its way across the river, what appeared to be a river cruise boat passed with about 30 or 40 white farangs (foreigners) drinking mixed drinks. As we passed them by, I sat proudly in my two bhat ferry surrounded by Thai faces.
Once off the ferry, I walked into yet another street market - they are practically unavoidable, and was again greeted with a mix of shoes, clothes, nicknacks and freshly prepared foods. I made my way across the street - not an easy feat - and found that I was on the sidewalk in front of the Grand Palace. I had had no idea that we were so close. As I made my way up the side walk, a tuk-tuk driver pulled over and pulled out a picture of the grand palace, pointing at it and saying, what I believed to be "closed, closed" or I just may have heard this because I was expecting it. I said, "mai chai, ka," (No) and continued on my way. I had read numerous stories about the tuk-tuk drivers who haunt tourist areas waiting for the unlucky tourist who believes their story that the site they want to see is closed and allow the tuk-tuk driver to take them to another site where they are pressured into buying something (usually jewels) and the driver makes a commission. A few yards later, another tuk-tuk pulled up and the driver, with the same picture, motioned to me and aggressively stabbed at the picture and then at the sidewalk saying "Closed! Closed!" I realized that it was the same driver and that he had somehow made a u-turn and come all the way back in that short of time (the traffic along the sidewalk was moving away from me). I gave up Thai and simply said that I wasn't going to the Grand Palace; I had already seen it, ignored his admonitions and continued on my way. Little did the driver know, not only did I know enough to question his motives, but I am also extremely cheap and even if I hadn't guessed what he was up to, I wouldn't have paid him to take me anywhere anyway.
I made it to my destination, Kho San Road (which I had wanted to find to have an orienting point in the city) and headed back to the house. On the way back, I passed a park where they were holding a kite flying competition and the shy was filled with racing and twirling kites. I also passed a group of men playing what looked like an advanced form of hacky sack. Six or seven men stood in a circle and used their heads, feet and shoulders to try to get a ball about half the size of a soccer ball into a net approximately 10 feet above their heads. It was really neat to watch.
Back at the river, I got on the ferry across the river, noting the name of the pier (which I have promply forgotten) so that I could make sure I got on the correct ferry again the next time. This ferry took us directly across the river to a pier just South (north? east? west?) of the one that I had departed from. Not knowing if it would go on, or simply go back across, I got off (an adventure in itself to be sure you make it from the boat to the pier without steping through the crack between the tires that keep the boat from scraping against the pier). Once off the pier, I found that I had walked right into a fish market complete with buckets full of lots of exotic river life. There were buckets of fish, buckets of eels, buckets of sucker fish, and buckets of soft shell turtles. I wandered around, checking everything out, noting to myself to ask someone at the house exactly what fate awaited all of those little turtles.
I made it back safely in about 2 hours and 15 minutes, having enjoyed my walk, but making sure to note the numbers on the buses that passed our neighborhood to save my feet a bit the next time.
I left the house with a water bottle, a banana, directions to the nearest pier and a rough idea of where I wanted to go. After stopping in to check my mail at the very convenient, yet very arcade-like, internet cafe at the end of the road, I turned left and headed over the bridge. The bridge to the left of the entrance of our neighborhood is small and leads you over a canal (klong). As I was crossing, I spotted an iguana, about two feet from head to tail, lounging on the rail.
After the bridge, the sidewalk market begins. The side walk markets often have permenant shops in the buildings and tables selling almost anything you can imagine lining both sides of the sidewalk outside of the shops, their awnings meeting to form a covered walkway. The carts in this market sell everything from fruites and vegetables to shoes and calculators, to every imaginable peice of pig. It was interesting, but crowded and the smell of the meat was a little much for me. Next time, I may walk on the other side of the road.
I turned and walked down to the pier and paid my two bhat to get on the ferry to cross the river. Only when I was on the ferry, did I realize that there may be lots of ferrys with lots of destinations and not just simply "across the river". Deciding to try my luck, I stayed on, figuring that it had to stop eventually and when it did, I would get off and make my way back. Luckily for me, I had chosen correctly.
As the ferry made its way across the river, what appeared to be a river cruise boat passed with about 30 or 40 white farangs (foreigners) drinking mixed drinks. As we passed them by, I sat proudly in my two bhat ferry surrounded by Thai faces.
Once off the ferry, I walked into yet another street market - they are practically unavoidable, and was again greeted with a mix of shoes, clothes, nicknacks and freshly prepared foods. I made my way across the street - not an easy feat - and found that I was on the sidewalk in front of the Grand Palace. I had had no idea that we were so close. As I made my way up the side walk, a tuk-tuk driver pulled over and pulled out a picture of the grand palace, pointing at it and saying, what I believed to be "closed, closed" or I just may have heard this because I was expecting it. I said, "mai chai, ka," (No) and continued on my way. I had read numerous stories about the tuk-tuk drivers who haunt tourist areas waiting for the unlucky tourist who believes their story that the site they want to see is closed and allow the tuk-tuk driver to take them to another site where they are pressured into buying something (usually jewels) and the driver makes a commission. A few yards later, another tuk-tuk pulled up and the driver, with the same picture, motioned to me and aggressively stabbed at the picture and then at the sidewalk saying "Closed! Closed!" I realized that it was the same driver and that he had somehow made a u-turn and come all the way back in that short of time (the traffic along the sidewalk was moving away from me). I gave up Thai and simply said that I wasn't going to the Grand Palace; I had already seen it, ignored his admonitions and continued on my way. Little did the driver know, not only did I know enough to question his motives, but I am also extremely cheap and even if I hadn't guessed what he was up to, I wouldn't have paid him to take me anywhere anyway.
I made it to my destination, Kho San Road (which I had wanted to find to have an orienting point in the city) and headed back to the house. On the way back, I passed a park where they were holding a kite flying competition and the shy was filled with racing and twirling kites. I also passed a group of men playing what looked like an advanced form of hacky sack. Six or seven men stood in a circle and used their heads, feet and shoulders to try to get a ball about half the size of a soccer ball into a net approximately 10 feet above their heads. It was really neat to watch.
Back at the river, I got on the ferry across the river, noting the name of the pier (which I have promply forgotten) so that I could make sure I got on the correct ferry again the next time. This ferry took us directly across the river to a pier just South (north? east? west?) of the one that I had departed from. Not knowing if it would go on, or simply go back across, I got off (an adventure in itself to be sure you make it from the boat to the pier without steping through the crack between the tires that keep the boat from scraping against the pier). Once off the pier, I found that I had walked right into a fish market complete with buckets full of lots of exotic river life. There were buckets of fish, buckets of eels, buckets of sucker fish, and buckets of soft shell turtles. I wandered around, checking everything out, noting to myself to ask someone at the house exactly what fate awaited all of those little turtles.
I made it back safely in about 2 hours and 15 minutes, having enjoyed my walk, but making sure to note the numbers on the buses that passed our neighborhood to save my feet a bit the next time.
Now I know my A, B, C's
Tuesday night we discovered, "Sit @ Side" the neighborhood bar, serving 80 bhat Singha's, where your glass is never empty. Three of the other volunteers and I spent a few hours chatting and having our glasses continously topped off by the ever-attentive bar staff. I am enjoying our group.
Wednesday and Thursday, I volunteered at the local day care with three other volunteers who will be there for their entire stint here. The first day, I was placed with a class of about 20 four-year-olds and handed a little chair and a flip chart of the English alphabet. After a few letters, I realized that these kids must do this every day (and it turns out that they do) because they recited everything back to me perfectly.
Three of the classes are held in one big room, with others held in adjoining rooms off of the main room. The teachers sing songs, it seems, to get the kids back on track when they stray, and the kids are encouraged to yell the songs back as loud as they can (or maybe they just like to yell). Needless to say, it is very loud in there. It seemed that the teachers have to work very hard to be creative to keep the kids focused on them.
The second day, they held an assembly in the main entrance and we were the guests of honor. After introducing ourselves to a room of 200+ kids, "Dichan chu Sharon, ka," we were asked to sing along with some English nursery rhymes, all which involved some sort of motion (Itsy, Bitsy Spider; Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes; Thumbkin, etc.). After that, apparently, we were asked to lead aerobics, something I only picked up on after I noticed one of the volunteers doing the motions first and the kids and teachers repeating her movements. Soon we were all trying to think of new moves so that we didn't have a roomful of children marching in place for two full minutes between every new move. It was a lot of fun.
After the assembly, we went upstairs and again I was handed the A, B, C book. Since we had just done it outside and I didn't see the good in repeating it (only that they probably figured it was all we could do) I thought I would try to be creative. I came up with the idea of having the kids all gather in groups based on the color of their shirts and teaching them the colors in English by having them all stand up, and yell (of course) their color when I held up that color crayon. We did manage to get them in groups and have them stand up when the teacher said the color of their shirt (in Thai) and I said the color in English, but that was as far as we got. If I had had flash cards and a week or so, I might have accomplished something, but I was proud of my efforts nonetheless. After my little color activity, I was again handed the A, B, Cs.
Wednesday and Thursday, I volunteered at the local day care with three other volunteers who will be there for their entire stint here. The first day, I was placed with a class of about 20 four-year-olds and handed a little chair and a flip chart of the English alphabet. After a few letters, I realized that these kids must do this every day (and it turns out that they do) because they recited everything back to me perfectly.
Three of the classes are held in one big room, with others held in adjoining rooms off of the main room. The teachers sing songs, it seems, to get the kids back on track when they stray, and the kids are encouraged to yell the songs back as loud as they can (or maybe they just like to yell). Needless to say, it is very loud in there. It seemed that the teachers have to work very hard to be creative to keep the kids focused on them.
The second day, they held an assembly in the main entrance and we were the guests of honor. After introducing ourselves to a room of 200+ kids, "Dichan chu Sharon, ka," we were asked to sing along with some English nursery rhymes, all which involved some sort of motion (Itsy, Bitsy Spider; Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes; Thumbkin, etc.). After that, apparently, we were asked to lead aerobics, something I only picked up on after I noticed one of the volunteers doing the motions first and the kids and teachers repeating her movements. Soon we were all trying to think of new moves so that we didn't have a roomful of children marching in place for two full minutes between every new move. It was a lot of fun.
After the assembly, we went upstairs and again I was handed the A, B, C book. Since we had just done it outside and I didn't see the good in repeating it (only that they probably figured it was all we could do) I thought I would try to be creative. I came up with the idea of having the kids all gather in groups based on the color of their shirts and teaching them the colors in English by having them all stand up, and yell (of course) their color when I held up that color crayon. We did manage to get them in groups and have them stand up when the teacher said the color of their shirt (in Thai) and I said the color in English, but that was as far as we got. If I had had flash cards and a week or so, I might have accomplished something, but I was proud of my efforts nonetheless. After my little color activity, I was again handed the A, B, Cs.
Tuesday, March 15, 2005
Hot Tea and a Change of Plans
In Thai, "cha" means tea and "ron" means "hot." I have been affectionately dubbed "hot tea."
Today we were all to visit our placements, but at the last minute as we were about to leave, Pimsuda (the director) called those of us placed at Baan Kanchanapisek into the office and told us that she had just received a call from the director saying that she didn't think it would be a good idea to have non-Thai-speaking volunteers there because she would be traveling a lot and she is the only one who speaks English. We were all a bit disappointed, but there was nothing anyone could do, so we were all up for whatever other placement was available. For the day, though, we all went to the Foundation for Children, where a volunteer is already placed.
The Foundation for Children is a home for children from birth to age 5 who are abandoned, abused or come from homes where their parents are unable to care for them. There were 13 babies about about 20 or so children aged 2-5. The kids were very cute and well taken care of. We sang songs and did exercise with them, played on the playground and in the classroom and helped get them dressed and down for a nap. When I went up to see the babies, I was handed a baby and a bowl of food by a woman feeding three babies at once. The babies all seemed well, but they must be a handful for the two women on staff (there were also two volunteers who are there for a few months).
After the Foundation we left for lunch and went to visit Baan Kanchanapisek, which was no longer a placement opportunity, but a visit. We were all extremely impressed. The grounds are enormous with brand new buildings, looking more like an upscale neighborhood than an institutions. The philosophy of the organization was just, if not more, impressive. The boys are seen not as criminals, but kids who have made a mistake. They must apply to get in and once in, they stay of their own free will. Each day they are required to write a daily journal and the journals are not corrected for spelling or grammar (so as to not discourage them from writing), but rather common mistakes are posted on a communal board so that they can correct themselves. Also any memorable or poetic quotes, with the boys' permission, are copied and put on bookmark to be sold, to show the boys that they do have something valuable to say. The boys also go out into the community schools and talk to other students about their past. They have also been invited to various organizations studying juvenile crime to talk about the reason for their behavior. It was such a progressive organization it was extremely impressive. The only question is to the effectiveness of the program because it has only been in existence for two years and follow up studies are needed.
After Baan Kanchanapisek, we headed back to the house. All day, as I had been taking in what was going on, I had a bit of a grumble going on in the back of my head. All of the other placements seemed to be day care centers and "I had not come to Thailand to work in a day care center." I soon caught myself and reasoned that even if I had to spend the next 12 weeks working in a day care center, I would take it one day at a time and that undoubtedly I would find at least one thing in each day to make me glad I was here. Fortunately for me, in the van on the way back to the house, Pimsuda received a call from an organization that does HIV/AIDS and public health outreach that would take on a volunteer. The organization also does some environmental education and clears "elephant trails" through a contract with a U.S. environmental organization. Needless to say, I was thrilled! I will start on Monday, finishing out this week at a new day care that I will go to tomorrow.
Today we were all to visit our placements, but at the last minute as we were about to leave, Pimsuda (the director) called those of us placed at Baan Kanchanapisek into the office and told us that she had just received a call from the director saying that she didn't think it would be a good idea to have non-Thai-speaking volunteers there because she would be traveling a lot and she is the only one who speaks English. We were all a bit disappointed, but there was nothing anyone could do, so we were all up for whatever other placement was available. For the day, though, we all went to the Foundation for Children, where a volunteer is already placed.
The Foundation for Children is a home for children from birth to age 5 who are abandoned, abused or come from homes where their parents are unable to care for them. There were 13 babies about about 20 or so children aged 2-5. The kids were very cute and well taken care of. We sang songs and did exercise with them, played on the playground and in the classroom and helped get them dressed and down for a nap. When I went up to see the babies, I was handed a baby and a bowl of food by a woman feeding three babies at once. The babies all seemed well, but they must be a handful for the two women on staff (there were also two volunteers who are there for a few months).
After the Foundation we left for lunch and went to visit Baan Kanchanapisek, which was no longer a placement opportunity, but a visit. We were all extremely impressed. The grounds are enormous with brand new buildings, looking more like an upscale neighborhood than an institutions. The philosophy of the organization was just, if not more, impressive. The boys are seen not as criminals, but kids who have made a mistake. They must apply to get in and once in, they stay of their own free will. Each day they are required to write a daily journal and the journals are not corrected for spelling or grammar (so as to not discourage them from writing), but rather common mistakes are posted on a communal board so that they can correct themselves. Also any memorable or poetic quotes, with the boys' permission, are copied and put on bookmark to be sold, to show the boys that they do have something valuable to say. The boys also go out into the community schools and talk to other students about their past. They have also been invited to various organizations studying juvenile crime to talk about the reason for their behavior. It was such a progressive organization it was extremely impressive. The only question is to the effectiveness of the program because it has only been in existence for two years and follow up studies are needed.
After Baan Kanchanapisek, we headed back to the house. All day, as I had been taking in what was going on, I had a bit of a grumble going on in the back of my head. All of the other placements seemed to be day care centers and "I had not come to Thailand to work in a day care center." I soon caught myself and reasoned that even if I had to spend the next 12 weeks working in a day care center, I would take it one day at a time and that undoubtedly I would find at least one thing in each day to make me glad I was here. Fortunately for me, in the van on the way back to the house, Pimsuda received a call from an organization that does HIV/AIDS and public health outreach that would take on a volunteer. The organization also does some environmental education and clears "elephant trails" through a contract with a U.S. environmental organization. Needless to say, I was thrilled! I will start on Monday, finishing out this week at a new day care that I will go to tomorrow.
Enlightenment
Monday was day two of our orientation. In the morning we visited the Grand Palace and Wat Po. These trips were so interesting and detailed that I cannot even hope to capture it all here, but I will do what I can (with the help of some links of course!).
Bangkok is the third capital of Siam. Ayuthaya was the first; Thonburi the second. The Grand Palace and grounds are immense. I believe that each King of Siam (& Thailand) added a building there and there is so much to see. Everything is so detailed: there are huge guard statues made of pieces of ceramic pottery, temples covered with gold leaf and mirrors and jewels, the longest wall painting in the world (absolutely fascinating - I could stay there a week just trying to figure it all out - this is just a small portion), a miniature replica of Angkor Wat and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The palace itself was designed after one of the kings (Rama 1-9) had visited Europe and wanted to base it on a European design, but gave it a uniquely Thai look by adding a Thai roof. It is referred to as the European with a Thai crown. There are also guards outside like those outside Buckingham Palace. Our guide, Jack, told us that they haven't been there that long, but were put there just because England has them.
Wat Phra Kaew is the home of the Emerald Buddha. Not coming from a Buddhist background, my favorite part of Wat Phra Kaew is the fact that they change his clothes each season! Inside the temple was amazing and very ornate. You have to remove your shoes before entering and no cameras are allowed.
There was another temple, which at first I did not think was so exciting, until we were told that the intricate design covering all of the walls wasn't wallpaper, but a hand painting! It was amazing! (I wish I could find a picture.)
The grounds are dotted with stone statues, like Asian gargoyles, that I found quite endearing. When I asked Jack about them, he said that when the Thai were trading with the Japanese, often they would have heavy loads on the way there and much lighter loads on the return trip. To balance out the ships, hundreds of these stone statues were purchased and when they made it home were dispersed around many temple grounds.
After the Grand Palace, we visited Wat Po, home of the reclining Buddha. This Buddha image is huge and it is only the third largest in Thailand. The foot prints of the Buddha are extremely intricately designed and inlaid with mother of pearl and this design is laid out specifically in Buddhist teachings. I can see why most Buddha images are made standing and sitting, feet down! On the way out there are 108 pots where you can donate coins (you purchase the 108 or so coins for a donation) and walk down the line dropping a coin or two in each pot. The sound of 50 people dropping coins in metal pots is really one to hear.
Some things I learned today (for those of you who were already aware of these things, forgive my ignorance.)
1) The "Buddha" image that we have all over the US of the chubby, happy guy, is not a Buddha at all, but a Chinese monk. A Buddha image is much thinner with the flame of enlightenment coming out of his head.
2) Shaking hands in greeting came from the tradition of showing your sword hand to prove that you were unarmed or meant no harm.
Bangkok is the third capital of Siam. Ayuthaya was the first; Thonburi the second. The Grand Palace and grounds are immense. I believe that each King of Siam (& Thailand) added a building there and there is so much to see. Everything is so detailed: there are huge guard statues made of pieces of ceramic pottery, temples covered with gold leaf and mirrors and jewels, the longest wall painting in the world (absolutely fascinating - I could stay there a week just trying to figure it all out - this is just a small portion), a miniature replica of Angkor Wat and Wat Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The palace itself was designed after one of the kings (Rama 1-9) had visited Europe and wanted to base it on a European design, but gave it a uniquely Thai look by adding a Thai roof. It is referred to as the European with a Thai crown. There are also guards outside like those outside Buckingham Palace. Our guide, Jack, told us that they haven't been there that long, but were put there just because England has them.
Wat Phra Kaew is the home of the Emerald Buddha. Not coming from a Buddhist background, my favorite part of Wat Phra Kaew is the fact that they change his clothes each season! Inside the temple was amazing and very ornate. You have to remove your shoes before entering and no cameras are allowed.
There was another temple, which at first I did not think was so exciting, until we were told that the intricate design covering all of the walls wasn't wallpaper, but a hand painting! It was amazing! (I wish I could find a picture.)
The grounds are dotted with stone statues, like Asian gargoyles, that I found quite endearing. When I asked Jack about them, he said that when the Thai were trading with the Japanese, often they would have heavy loads on the way there and much lighter loads on the return trip. To balance out the ships, hundreds of these stone statues were purchased and when they made it home were dispersed around many temple grounds.
After the Grand Palace, we visited Wat Po, home of the reclining Buddha. This Buddha image is huge and it is only the third largest in Thailand. The foot prints of the Buddha are extremely intricately designed and inlaid with mother of pearl and this design is laid out specifically in Buddhist teachings. I can see why most Buddha images are made standing and sitting, feet down! On the way out there are 108 pots where you can donate coins (you purchase the 108 or so coins for a donation) and walk down the line dropping a coin or two in each pot. The sound of 50 people dropping coins in metal pots is really one to hear.
Some things I learned today (for those of you who were already aware of these things, forgive my ignorance.)
1) The "Buddha" image that we have all over the US of the chubby, happy guy, is not a Buddha at all, but a Chinese monk. A Buddha image is much thinner with the flame of enlightenment coming out of his head.
2) Shaking hands in greeting came from the tradition of showing your sword hand to prove that you were unarmed or meant no harm.
Sunday, March 13, 2005
Khun sa-bai-dee mai
(How are you?)
I have only been in Thailand for... what day is it again... Sunday... Two full days? and am already back into travel mode. I remembered today why I love to travel so much - you wake up every day never knowing what will happen, what you will see, what you will do. The world is filled with possibilities. And of course all of the great people you meet. I have plans for April to spend 10 days at the beach with two of my new friends. Who would have thought just yesterday!
There are six in my volunteer group, three of us from the states and three girls from the UK. Everyone except one is in their 20's (I think I may be the second oldest) and we all get on very well. Last night we all went for sushi on Kho San Road (the "backpacker haven" of Bangkok) and it was unlike anywhere I have ever seen. The street is a mix of bars and shops and street vendors and the crowd is a mix of young thais and 20 something backpackers from all over as well as older "hippie types." You can buy almost anything there and the music blaring from the bars is distinctly American. It was definitely not an authentic Thai experience, but there are a great mix of bars and it is great for people watching.
Today was the first day of orientation. The morning was spent talking a bit about Thai culture and customs. We were then split up into pairs and given a "mission." Our mission was to go to a restaurant (specified on our mission card) and buy 40 sticks of "moo satae" (moo = chicken!) and then to 7-11 (they are everywhere) for drinks. The others had to purchase fruit and vegetables at the market and buy sticky rice and mangos for dessert as well as getting their fortune from the Buddha in a local temple. I thought ours was the easiest, but we managed to have somewhat of an adventure.
When we turned on the road to the restaurant, we encountered a monk leading a little boy. Apparently there was something greatly disturbing about us (two western women?) and the monk grabbed the boy and rushed away from us with an ovbious look of distaste. When monks are touched by a women they have to go through some sort of cleansing ritual. Maybe it isn't a very pleasant experience. Or maybe it was just him. I've passed other monks on the road without similar reactions.
On our way to the 7-ll, we passed two women at a food cart and greeted them in Thai. One woman asked if we spoke Thai (in English) and I answered that I could say two words: "Hello" and "Thank you." The other women immediately picked out a bracelet for me from her display and insisted that I take it as a gift. I wasn't sure if I should take it, but did out of respect and thanked her (in Thai). Back at CCS, I asked if that was the appropriate thing to do and was told that it was and that many Thai people love it when foreigners (farangs) attempt to speak Thai and are just generally very friendly people. I had read that sentiment a million times when reading about Thailand, but it was really nice to see just how true it is.
After lunch, we had Thai lessons and learned how to say "What is your name? " "My name is...," "Where are you from?" "I am from...," "How are you?" "I am fine," "Where are you going?" "I am going to the bathroom (hospital, 7-11) and to count to 100. It was a lot of fun and the instructor incorporated practical exercises into each lesson. I am looking forward to shopping now that I can ask "how much?" and understand the reply.
After the language lessons, we went on a tour to learn how to navigate the public transportation - metered taxi to river taxi to sky train. The sky train is similar to MARTA or the NYC subway when it goes above ground. It was neat to finally see more of metropolitan Bangkok. It is HUGE! I doubt I will be able to see a quarter of all I want to see in three months.
Tomorrow we will go sightseeing and have some more language lessons and then Tuesday it is off to our placements. I am looking forward to having some down time to write letters and to plan everything I want to do - there is so much!
I have only been in Thailand for... what day is it again... Sunday... Two full days? and am already back into travel mode. I remembered today why I love to travel so much - you wake up every day never knowing what will happen, what you will see, what you will do. The world is filled with possibilities. And of course all of the great people you meet. I have plans for April to spend 10 days at the beach with two of my new friends. Who would have thought just yesterday!
There are six in my volunteer group, three of us from the states and three girls from the UK. Everyone except one is in their 20's (I think I may be the second oldest) and we all get on very well. Last night we all went for sushi on Kho San Road (the "backpacker haven" of Bangkok) and it was unlike anywhere I have ever seen. The street is a mix of bars and shops and street vendors and the crowd is a mix of young thais and 20 something backpackers from all over as well as older "hippie types." You can buy almost anything there and the music blaring from the bars is distinctly American. It was definitely not an authentic Thai experience, but there are a great mix of bars and it is great for people watching.
Today was the first day of orientation. The morning was spent talking a bit about Thai culture and customs. We were then split up into pairs and given a "mission." Our mission was to go to a restaurant (specified on our mission card) and buy 40 sticks of "moo satae" (moo = chicken!) and then to 7-11 (they are everywhere) for drinks. The others had to purchase fruit and vegetables at the market and buy sticky rice and mangos for dessert as well as getting their fortune from the Buddha in a local temple. I thought ours was the easiest, but we managed to have somewhat of an adventure.
When we turned on the road to the restaurant, we encountered a monk leading a little boy. Apparently there was something greatly disturbing about us (two western women?) and the monk grabbed the boy and rushed away from us with an ovbious look of distaste. When monks are touched by a women they have to go through some sort of cleansing ritual. Maybe it isn't a very pleasant experience. Or maybe it was just him. I've passed other monks on the road without similar reactions.
On our way to the 7-ll, we passed two women at a food cart and greeted them in Thai. One woman asked if we spoke Thai (in English) and I answered that I could say two words: "Hello" and "Thank you." The other women immediately picked out a bracelet for me from her display and insisted that I take it as a gift. I wasn't sure if I should take it, but did out of respect and thanked her (in Thai). Back at CCS, I asked if that was the appropriate thing to do and was told that it was and that many Thai people love it when foreigners (farangs) attempt to speak Thai and are just generally very friendly people. I had read that sentiment a million times when reading about Thailand, but it was really nice to see just how true it is.
After lunch, we had Thai lessons and learned how to say "What is your name? " "My name is...," "Where are you from?" "I am from...," "How are you?" "I am fine," "Where are you going?" "I am going to the bathroom (hospital, 7-11) and to count to 100. It was a lot of fun and the instructor incorporated practical exercises into each lesson. I am looking forward to shopping now that I can ask "how much?" and understand the reply.
After the language lessons, we went on a tour to learn how to navigate the public transportation - metered taxi to river taxi to sky train. The sky train is similar to MARTA or the NYC subway when it goes above ground. It was neat to finally see more of metropolitan Bangkok. It is HUGE! I doubt I will be able to see a quarter of all I want to see in three months.
Tomorrow we will go sightseeing and have some more language lessons and then Tuesday it is off to our placements. I am looking forward to having some down time to write letters and to plan everything I want to do - there is so much!
Saturday, March 12, 2005
Sawadee Ka
Hello, from Thailand.
I arrived in Bangkok around 4:30 p.m. on Friday and was picked up from the airport by June and Dumm. June is the administrative assistant for CCS and Dumm is the driver. The van was parked in at the airport and we had to push the cars (parked parallel to the van) out of the way to make room to get out. My first non-US experience.
My first impression of Bangkok from the ride from the airport is that it looked a lot like Mexico City. It probably looks nothing like Mexico City, but I saw both the first time just off of the plane and my brain picked up some similarity. The CCS grounds are in a quiet middle class neighborhood (lots of gated homes). They consist of three buildings and a little pond in the middle. I haven't had much time to explore more than the kitchen, bedroom and bathroom, but it is quite homey.My official orientation does not begin until tomorrow, so things have been pretty casual.
Today we (myself, Foon (CCS program assistant) and three other volunteers) went on a half day trip to a pottery market. To get to the market, we took a water taxi and then hired a covered long boat to take us the rest of the way. A man on the deck where we hired the boat was fishing for shrimp and when he noticed me watching him, he motioned me over to show me the shrimp that he had already caught and said "tom yum!" I laughed thinking he meant "tom yum soup" and maybe he did, but tom yum could also mean "shrimp." I need to look that one up.
The banks of the Chao Praya River where we were are lined with modern buildings, highrises and a few scattered homes. The further we went, the more residential it became and the banks were lined with houses. It must be so neat to be able to fish off of your back porch! And I can't forget the wats (Thai Buddhist Temples)!
They are everywhere. We made one stop at a dessert shop where I experienced my first Thai squat toilet. It probable isn't proper to go into details on this one, but lets just say it could possibly be an experience in itself.
The market was basically a tourist market, but we were able to watch a man make a pot complete with lid and stand. His set up was very basic, simply a motor attached to a belt, attached to another wheel which made the pottery wheel turn. For lunch, Poon ordered for us and we had rice in ice water (dubbed "ice rice") and a bowl of fried pork skin strips, fried fish balls and some carmelized Chinese vegetable for an appetizer. The main course was vegetables in oyster sauce, a plate of egg (somewhat like an omelet with nothing in it) and tom yum soup. The meal was good; the appetizer made for a pretty picture.
I'm not sure how much this internet cafe costs yet (I need to look up how to say that) so I'm not sure how much I can post. It is going to be hard not to write, because I'm sure almost everything is going to be an experience, but it will be a good exercise in editing (and budgeting).
I am looking forward to my time here; much more so when I was all by myself on the plane. It will be fun to learn the language and find my way around. There is a volunteer here who has been here since January and she gets around extremely well. I'm looking forward to getting to that place and all it takes to get there.
I arrived in Bangkok around 4:30 p.m. on Friday and was picked up from the airport by June and Dumm. June is the administrative assistant for CCS and Dumm is the driver. The van was parked in at the airport and we had to push the cars (parked parallel to the van) out of the way to make room to get out. My first non-US experience.
My first impression of Bangkok from the ride from the airport is that it looked a lot like Mexico City. It probably looks nothing like Mexico City, but I saw both the first time just off of the plane and my brain picked up some similarity. The CCS grounds are in a quiet middle class neighborhood (lots of gated homes). They consist of three buildings and a little pond in the middle. I haven't had much time to explore more than the kitchen, bedroom and bathroom, but it is quite homey.My official orientation does not begin until tomorrow, so things have been pretty casual.
Today we (myself, Foon (CCS program assistant) and three other volunteers) went on a half day trip to a pottery market. To get to the market, we took a water taxi and then hired a covered long boat to take us the rest of the way. A man on the deck where we hired the boat was fishing for shrimp and when he noticed me watching him, he motioned me over to show me the shrimp that he had already caught and said "tom yum!" I laughed thinking he meant "tom yum soup" and maybe he did, but tom yum could also mean "shrimp." I need to look that one up.
The banks of the Chao Praya River where we were are lined with modern buildings, highrises and a few scattered homes. The further we went, the more residential it became and the banks were lined with houses. It must be so neat to be able to fish off of your back porch! And I can't forget the wats (Thai Buddhist Temples)!
They are everywhere. We made one stop at a dessert shop where I experienced my first Thai squat toilet. It probable isn't proper to go into details on this one, but lets just say it could possibly be an experience in itself.
The market was basically a tourist market, but we were able to watch a man make a pot complete with lid and stand. His set up was very basic, simply a motor attached to a belt, attached to another wheel which made the pottery wheel turn. For lunch, Poon ordered for us and we had rice in ice water (dubbed "ice rice") and a bowl of fried pork skin strips, fried fish balls and some carmelized Chinese vegetable for an appetizer. The main course was vegetables in oyster sauce, a plate of egg (somewhat like an omelet with nothing in it) and tom yum soup. The meal was good; the appetizer made for a pretty picture.
I'm not sure how much this internet cafe costs yet (I need to look up how to say that) so I'm not sure how much I can post. It is going to be hard not to write, because I'm sure almost everything is going to be an experience, but it will be a good exercise in editing (and budgeting).
I am looking forward to my time here; much more so when I was all by myself on the plane. It will be fun to learn the language and find my way around. There is a volunteer here who has been here since January and she gets around extremely well. I'm looking forward to getting to that place and all it takes to get there.
Friday, March 11, 2005
Twenty nine hours, two stops, and no showers later...
...I'm still not there yet! I cannot believe that so much has gone on at home and I have either been in a plane, waiting to get off a plane, or waiting to get on another plane and I'm still not quite in Bangkok. Two more hours to wait and one hour to fly from Kuala Lumpor, Malaysia. I could have paid 18 dollars for an all inclusive business lounge complete with "food and drink," "free-flowing beer," "hot shower," "internet access," "chair massage," etc., but I decided to get 75 minutes of internet for $5 at Burger King (yes, Burger King) instead.
My flights, though long and not too easy on certain body parts, were pleasant enough and safely uneventful. I was able to sleep and read up on my Bangkok guides and catch a showing of the Incredibles. The food was great: chicken curry for dinner, a Chinese breakfast (shrimp dumpling and lotus rice - sticky rice with some sort of seafood served in a leaf of some sort (very cultured description, I know)), and a vegetarian Indian dish for brunch. Needless to say, the food has been the highlight.
I saw my first monk in the airport in Taipei (a stop over), realized that books in some Asian countries open on the left and received my first "foreign" currency in Malaysia, the value of which I have not an inkling. I would desperately like to take my first "foreign" shower. I am looking forward to arriving in Bangkok. The ride from the airport is supposed to take an hour and a half in traffic, so I should have plenty of time to take in the city sights on the way.
I just wanted to check in to let everyone know that I am almost safely there. I hope this finds you all well. My whole life when I've talked about traveling, I've heard the response that all traveling will do is make you appreciate the United States more. I have yet to experience that, but I do know that everyone I love is there and right now it seems so very, very far away!
My flights, though long and not too easy on certain body parts, were pleasant enough and safely uneventful. I was able to sleep and read up on my Bangkok guides and catch a showing of the Incredibles. The food was great: chicken curry for dinner, a Chinese breakfast (shrimp dumpling and lotus rice - sticky rice with some sort of seafood served in a leaf of some sort (very cultured description, I know)), and a vegetarian Indian dish for brunch. Needless to say, the food has been the highlight.
I saw my first monk in the airport in Taipei (a stop over), realized that books in some Asian countries open on the left and received my first "foreign" currency in Malaysia, the value of which I have not an inkling. I would desperately like to take my first "foreign" shower. I am looking forward to arriving in Bangkok. The ride from the airport is supposed to take an hour and a half in traffic, so I should have plenty of time to take in the city sights on the way.
I just wanted to check in to let everyone know that I am almost safely there. I hope this finds you all well. My whole life when I've talked about traveling, I've heard the response that all traveling will do is make you appreciate the United States more. I have yet to experience that, but I do know that everyone I love is there and right now it seems so very, very far away!
Wednesday, March 09, 2005
Laaeo Phohp Gan Mai
I've spent the past few days visiting friends and family before I leave and instead of saying goodbye, I've decided to say see you later (Laaeo Phohp Gan Mai), because I will be back and this is just one short six month adventure, of many, in life. I don't like goodbyes.
I leave tomorrow at seven........ something (I should look that up) and will spend the following 19 (or 22 or 24 depending on who you ask) hours in the air and will arrive in Bangkok at four.... something (I never was good with details). Luckily I have a ride from the airport and am encouraged to sleep immediately upon arrival. I am already looking forward to the nap!
If I wasn't able to write or call to say "see you later," I apologize. I have been running around trying to make sure I've done everything I need to do before I leave. I will be sure to write when I arrive, or sometime that first week. I will miss you all and it will be so good to hear from you.
Here I go (deep breath)...
I leave tomorrow at seven........ something (I should look that up) and will spend the following 19 (or 22 or 24 depending on who you ask) hours in the air and will arrive in Bangkok at four.... something (I never was good with details). Luckily I have a ride from the airport and am encouraged to sleep immediately upon arrival. I am already looking forward to the nap!
If I wasn't able to write or call to say "see you later," I apologize. I have been running around trying to make sure I've done everything I need to do before I leave. I will be sure to write when I arrive, or sometime that first week. I will miss you all and it will be so good to hear from you.
Here I go (deep breath)...
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