Vamos Super Chivos!

At four o´clock we met up in front of the futbol stadium to buy tickets for that evening´s 8:00 game between Xela´s Super Chivos (Super Goats) and Guatemala City´s Guate Cremas. We were told that we had to purchase tickets ahead of time in order to get seats, so we resigned ourselves to sitting in the stadiums concrete bleachers for six hours. After about three hours, it became apparent that we really hadn´t needed to arrive as early as we had, but we managed to make the time pass enjoyably, by purchasing "cenas" of chicken, potatoes, onions, beans and tortillas; talking and watching the minor league game that was played before the main event. While the game it self was somewhat anti-climactic, with no clock to watch to know when the end was near and a final score of 2 to 2, the experience itself was definitely memorable.

The stadium seats about 8000, primarily on the south side, with three rows of benches lining the east and west sides, including a small section for the visiting team and another section on the north side, locally known for its collection of rowdy fans. Other avid fans found themselves prime seats in the branches of trees surrounding the stadium. We sat in the large set of stands on the South side, mixed in with the crowd of bright red and navy blue Super Chivos´ fans and one lone Cremes´ fan in white, who was more than once yelled at by an aggressive crowed to leave. Luckily for him (and us) alcohol has been prohibited in the stadium for the past seven years since an official was killed by a flying beer bottle after a questionable call, and the situation did not escalate into violence.

We could feel the energy in the crowd increasing as the start of the game neared. Local people came through the isles selling tacos, chips, drinks, candy and cigarettes, as well as Super Chivos hats, flags and other fan merchandise. We were impressed to see that the flags were not the little one handed flags that we can buy at games at home, but closer to the size that you would hang on the front of your house, complete with broom-handle sized flagpole. When the opposing team followed the home team out onto the field, the stadium erupted in an impressive display of confetti, fireworks and red and blue colored smoke, which lasted for at least five minutes.

Our director told us that we would learn a lot of new vocabulary words at the game and we soon found that he had been telling the truth as a whole slew of foul words in Spanish were continuously hurled at the referees, the players and the opposing team. Each time the opposing teams goalie returned the ball to the field, the entire crowd shouted, "Fagot" in Spanish, leaving us to speculate on the plight of homosexuals in Latin America.

During the game, police in riot gear had stood in groups at either side of the goal nearest to our seats. After the game, we were amused as we watched the fans hurling oranges and other items at the police who merely stood in place and held up their shields to deflect the barrage of flying trash, as fans brazenly climbed over the fence onto the field right in front of them.

This morning, I left my family, with no regrets and will be meeting my new family this afternoon. I am looking forward to a good solid three weeks of studying in a new environment. I hope to be able to fit in at least on weekend hike with a local organization, as well as a weekend working with the local Habitat for Humanity affiliate. With all the appealing options offered by the school, I may have to put those off until after I return from my week of in-country travel. So much to do...